Brihadeeswarar Temple

Brihadeeswarar Temple stands in Thanjavur in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu, close to the Cauvery delta. It was built by the Chola emperor Rajaraja I between 1003 and 1010 CE, and he named it Rajarajesvaram. Locally it is called the Periya Kovil, the Big Temple. It is dedicated to Shiva and is still an active place of worship.

The temple was the centrepiece of the Chola capital at the height of the dynasty's power. Inscriptions on its walls record gifts of land, gold and cattle, and list hundreds of dancers, musicians and staff who served it. In 1987 UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site, later extended as the Great Living Chola Temples together with temples at Gangaikonda Cholapuram and Darasuram.

The tower over the inner shrine, the vimana, rises about 66 metres in thirteen tiers and was among the tallest structures in India when built. It is made of granite, a stone not found nearby, and is topped by a large stone cupola. Inside the sanctum is one of the largest Shiva lingams in India. A huge Nandi bull, carved from a single stone, sits in its own pavilion facing the shrine. The walls of the passage around the sanctum carry Chola frescoes, later partly painted over in the Nayak period.

The complex is entered through two gopuram gateways and is enclosed by a long cloister lined with lingams. Fortified walls were added after the 16th century.

Entry to the temple is free. It is open daily from 6:00 to 12:30 and again from 16:00 to about 20:30. Visitors should dress modestly and remove shoes at the entrance. The stone-paved courtyard grows very hot by afternoon.

Morning and evening darshan hours

The temple opens daily at 6:00 and the inner sanctum closes at 12:30 for the midday rituals, reopening from 16:00 until about 20:30. Some guides give 21:00 as the evening close, and times shift a little on festival days, so arrive well before closing for darshan.

The courtyard is open during the morning and evening sessions, and the hour before sunset is the best time to see the granite vimana turn gold. Evening puja brings lamps, drums and chanting, which many visitors find the most memorable part of a visit.