Venue
Corfu Old Town, Corfu 491 00, Greece
Easter in Corfu guide
Orthodox Easter follows the Julian calendar and moves each year, usually between early April and early May. Corfu's Holy Week brings brass bands behind Good Friday biers and clay jugs smashed from balconies on Holy Saturday morning. It suits travellers who want an Easter shaped by Venetian history; book well ahead.
Corfu keeps an Orthodox Easter unlike any other in Greece. Long Venetian rule left the island with brass bands playing funeral marches behind the Good Friday biers, a Catholic community marking the feast beside the Orthodox majority, and a Holy Saturday morning when clay jugs come crashing down from the balconies of the old town.
What makes it worth the journey is how public the whole week is. Almost nothing happens behind closed doors. Rehearsals, processions and the midnight Resurrection all play out in the lanes and squares of a town on the UNESCO list since 2007, and Corfiots of every age turn out for the grief of Friday and the noise of Saturday alike.
Corfu Old Town, Corfu 491 00, Greece
Hotels near the venue fill up around the event dates.
The jugs are thrown from upper floors and they are full of water, so pick a spot well away from the building line and expect a splash. Shards skid a surprising distance across the paving. Keep children close, hold phones firmly, and wear closed shoes.
Arrive early. The best positions along the Spianada and the Liston fill long before the bells, and nobody gives ground until the bands have finished. Plenty of Corfiots pick up a fragment afterwards as a keepsake for luck, and visitors are welcome to do the same.
Holy Week is a religious occasion first and a spectacle second. In church, cover shoulders and knees, speak quietly, and slip out during a pause. Never cut through a procession to reach the other side of the street; wait until the epitaphios and its band have gone by. Hats off and voices down as a bier passes.
Photographing the street processions is normal. Inside a church, switch off flash and shutter sound, and do not film worshippers at close range during a service.
Good Friday runs late, the Resurrection is at midnight on Saturday, and Saturday itself starts at dawn. Rest in the afternoon if you want to see both ends of the day. Bring a warm layer: spring nights by the sea turn cool once the sun has gone.
If you hold a candle at midnight, fit it with a paper or plastic guard and keep the flame clear of the hair and coat in front of you. The crowd on the square is tightly packed.
Easter Sunday belongs to families and the town is noticeably quieter. Book any restaurant lunch well in advance.
Choirs walk the historic centre singing and finish at San Giacomo, the former town hall.
The saint's relic goes out on the longest of its processions, with all 17 of the island's philharmonic bands.
Crowds gather outside the three old philharmonic societies for the last run-through of the funeral marches.
Thirty-three biers leave their parishes through the afternoon and evening; after 22:00 the Metropolitan Cathedral's procession sets out with every band in town.
At 06:00 the pews are banged at Panagia ton Xenon; at 09:00 the relic and an epitaphios leave together; at 11:00 the bells ring and the botides are thrown from balconies.
The Holy Light is met at Pentofanaro, and the crowd gathers on the Upper Spianada for midnight.
Saint Spyridon's relic goes back into its casket.
Two days is the minimum. Make them Good Friday and Holy Saturday, when the island stages its best-known rituals. With five or six days the week builds properly around you, from the carols of Lazarus Saturday through the Palm Sunday procession and the quieter evenings of music in midweek. Stay on to Easter Tuesday evening and you see Saint Spyridon's relic go back into its casket.
Keep meal plans loose. Streets close as each procession passes, and a table booked for the wrong hour can strand you on the wrong side of a band. If Corfu is one stop on a longer route, our guide to travelling in Greece helps with the rest.
Venice explains most of what sets this Easter apart. Under Venetian rule Catholics and Orthodox lived side by side and kept the feast together, and when the authorities stopped Orthodox processions on Good Friday, islanders moved the epitaphios to Holy Saturday morning. The Friday processions came back in time. The Saturday one never left. Even the botides, clay jugs filled with water and tied with red ribbon, probably began as a Venetian New Year habit of throwing out old crockery, borrowed by the Orthodox and shifted to spring.
Then there is the music. The philharmonic societies carry the week, and the three oldest, the Philharmonic Society of Corfu, the Mantzaros and the Kapodistrias, lead it. On Good Friday they play funeral marches such as Albinoni's Adagio and Chopin's Marche Funèbre behind the biers, 33 of them in all, one for each year of Christ's life. Once the jugs have fallen on Saturday the mood flips, and the bands launch into the march Grekoi.
Kitchens start early. From Holy Monday families bake fogatses, a sweet bread with liqueur and kumquat, and colombines, braided loaves with a red egg pressed into the dough. Sunday is lamb on the spit, at home with family.
Corfu airport is on the edge of Garitsa, about 2 km south of town, around 10 minutes by taxi, with buses into the centre. Aegean flies from Athens; many European routes are seasonal and only ramp up from April, so check your route is flying in Holy Week.
From Igoumenitsa on the mainland, Kerkyra Lines and Kerkyra Seaways reach the port of Corfu Town in 70 to 90 minutes. Avoid the service to Lefkimmi, 43 km south of town.
Walk. The old town's lanes are narrow and the processions close what roads there are. Leave any hire car at the hotel until Easter Monday.
Sleep in the old town if you possibly can. Kampiello in the old core, Spilia near the Metropolitan Cathedral and Garitsa along the bay to the south go first. A beach hotel at the resorts is a nuisance during the processions and the late Resurrection.
Reserve months ahead and book flights at the same time. Two nights, Good Friday and Holy Saturday, is the minimum.
Easter falls in a mild, sometimes showery spring. Corfu Town averages a daytime high of about 19°C in April and 24°C in May, with lows of 10 to 13°C. April brings about 65 mm of rain over twelve wet days, May about 37 mm over eight (1955-2010 averages).
Late-night processions and the midnight Resurrection call for a warm layer.
Met at arrivals and driven door to door to Spianada.
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General
Yes. The village of Episkepsi holds its own carol singing on the evening of Lazarus Saturday, after the choirs have finished in town.
At 11:00, when the church bells ring for the First Resurrection. It is over in minutes, so be in position well before.
Breaking the botides is said to drive bad luck out of the house. Historians link the custom to Venetians smashing old crockery at New Year, a habit Orthodox islanders moved to Easter.
A barrel of water decorated with flowers. People toss coins into it while making a wish during Holy Week, and at the First Resurrection on Saturday someone jumps in to scoop out the money.
From Holy Wednesday the street lanterns, the Liston, the Palace and the cross on the Old Fortress are lit in purple. It is the town's visual cue that the most solemn part of the week has begun.
The two churches have shared the celebration in Corfu since Venetian times. On Holy Thursday the Catholic Cathedral holds its own ceremony, with the Archbishop washing the feet of 12 children.
Corfu's Easter sweet bread, of Venetian origin, flavoured with liqueur and the island's kumquat. Households bake it from Holy Monday, alongside colombines, braided loaves holding a red egg.
Yes. In recent years the Municipal Theatre has hosted a religious concert on Lazarus Saturday afternoon, and on Holy Tuesday choirs sing the Troparion of Kassiani while the Old Palace holds a night of music and poetry. Check the municipal programme for the current year.
Churches hold Resurrection liturgies and processions with icons, and in the afternoon the Vespers of Love at the Metropolitan Cathedral reads the Gospel in several languages.
Booking
Thirty-three, each with its own choir and band, and the number matches the years of Christ's life. The procession from the Metropolitan Cathedral is the last and largest of the night.
Timing & weather
On the evening of Holy Thursday, outside the three old philharmonic societies.
On Easter Tuesday evening. The ceremony is called the Mpasmatha of the Saint, and officials and the oldest bands attend.
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