Elephanta Caves

The Elephanta Caves are on Elephanta Island, also called Gharapuri, the city of caves, in Mumbai Harbour about 10 kilometres east of the Gateway of India. The island has five Hindu caves, two Buddhist caves and a few Buddhist stupa mounds that date back to the 2nd century BCE.

The Hindu caves were cut into solid basalt rock, most likely between the 5th and 7th centuries CE; the dynasty that made them is still debated. The Portuguese, who took control of the island in the 16th century, named it Elephanta after a large stone elephant found near the landing. That elephant now stands in the gardens of Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum in Mumbai. Portuguese soldiers damaged many of the carvings. UNESCO listed the caves as a World Heritage Site in 1987.

The Great Cave, Cave 1, is the main attraction. It is a large pillared hall with a lingam shrine and a series of carved panels showing Shiva in different forms, including Nataraja the lord of dance, Ardhanarishvara the half-male and half-female form, and the marriage of Shiva and Parvati. The most famous is the Trimurti, or Sadashiva, a three-headed bust about 5.45 metres high showing Shiva as creator, preserver and destroyer.

Ferries run from the Gateway of India and take about an hour. From the jetty, a toy train and a climb of about 120 steps, lined with souvenir stalls, lead to the caves.

The caves are managed by the Archaeological Survey of India and are closed on Mondays. Separate tickets are needed for the ferry and the caves, with a higher rate for foreign visitors.

What do tickets cost? The Archaeological Survey of India charges foreign visitors INR 600 and Indian, SAARC and BIMSTEC visitors INR 40, with a small discount for tickets bought online. The return ferry from the Gateway of India costs about INR 260 to 300, and upper-deck seats cost a little more. The first ferry usually leaves the Gateway at 9am, and the last boat back leaves the island at about 5.30pm.

The Great Cave is about 39 metres square in plan, with rows of six pillars dividing the hall. Caves 2 to 5 stand on the same western hill, called Canon Hill after the cannons the Portuguese placed there. Most are unfinished or badly damaged. Stupa Hill to the east holds the Buddhist caves 6 and 7 and stupa mounds dating from about the 2nd century BCE.

About the island. Elephanta covers about 10 square kilometres at high tide and 16 at low tide. Its three hamlets are Set Bunder in the north-west, Mora Bunder in the north-east and Gharapuri, or Raj Bunder, in the south, where the ferries land. Monkeys live around the steps and snatch food and bags, so keep snacks out of sight. Avoid the monsoon months, when ferries are often suspended.