Ha Long Bay (Vịnh Hạ Long)

Ha Long Bay lies in the Gulf of Tonkin off the coast of Quang Ninh province in north-east Vietnam, about three hours by road from Hanoi. The bay covers around 1,553 square kilometres and holds roughly 1,969 islets, most of them steep limestone towers and pillars covered in jungle. Its core protected zone covers about 334 square kilometres with some 775 islets.

Ha Long means descending dragon. A local legend tells of dragons sent to defend the land, who spat out jewels that became the islands. The karst landscape actually formed over about 20 million years as the limestone was worn down by a warm, wet climate and then partly drowned by the sea. Prehistoric cultures lived around the bay, and in 1288 Vietnamese forces defeated a Mongol fleet in the area.

Waves and rain have carved many caves into the islands. Among the best known are Sung Sot, a large cave with several chambers, Thien Cung, with dense stalactites and stalagmites, and Dau Go. Fishing families once lived in floating villages on the bay, though many households have since been moved ashore to protect the water.

UNESCO listed Ha Long Bay as a World Heritage Site in 1994, recognised its geological value in 2000 and extended the site in 2023 to include the Cat Ba archipelago. Pollution and heavy tourism are concerns, and the provincial authorities have moved to restrict single-use plastics on tour boats.

Most visitors see the bay on a day cruise or an overnight boat trip from the piers at Ha Long City, with stops for caves, kayaking and swimming. A sightseeing fee is charged per route and is usually included in cruise prices. October to April brings calmer weather, while summer can bring storms that cancel sailings.

The numbers behind the karst are large. Geologists put the formation of the limestone itself at around 500 million years, while the towers and caves took shape over the last 20 million. UNESCO's first listing in 1994 recognised the scenery, and the 2000 extension added the bay's geology and geomorphology as a second reason for protection.

Each of the main caves has its own story. Dau Go, the largest grotto in the Ha Long area, is linked by tradition to the wooden stakes that Tran Hung Dao's forces drove into the Bach Dang River in the 13th century to wreck the Mongol ships. Kim Quy cave is named after the golden turtle of Vietnamese legend, and smaller caves such as Tam Cung, Trinh Nu and Luon are often visited by kayak or bamboo boat.

Four floating villages once dominated the bay: Cua Van, Ba Hang, Cap De and Vong Vieng, with around 1,600 residents between them. From May 2014 more than 300 households were moved ashore to a resettlement area at Khe Ca, so the villages now seen from cruise boats are smaller and partly kept for visitors. Cat Ba Island, on the south-west side and run by Hai Phong city, has permanent towns, hotels and a national park of its own, and makes a good base for those who would rather sleep on land.