Paharpur Buddhist Vihara (পাহাড়পুর বৌদ্ধ বিহার)

The ruins of Somapura Mahavihara stand at the village of Paharpur in Badalgachhi Upazila, Naogaon District, in northwest Bangladesh. Seal inscriptions found on the site name the Pala king Dharmapala, who ruled from about 781 to 821, as its founder, while some Tibetan sources credit his son Devapala.

For about three centuries the monastery was an important centre of Buddhist learning, linked with other great monasteries such as Nalanda and Vikramashila in present day India. The local name Paharpur, meaning hill town, comes from the high mound formed by the ruined central temple. Excavations began in the 1920s under the Archaeological Survey of India and continued after independence.

The monastery is a vast square courtyard enclosed by a wall lined on the inside with 177 small cells, where monks lived and studied. The whole complex covers around 11 hectares. In the centre rises a large cruciform temple built in terraces of brick, which influenced Buddhist architecture as far away as Southeast Asia. Its walls are decorated with rows of terracotta plaques showing Buddhist and Hindu figures, animals and scenes of everyday life.

UNESCO listed the site in 1985 as the Ruins of the Buddhist Vihara at Paharpur. A small museum near the entrance displays terracotta plaques, stone sculptures, coins and pottery found during excavation.

Tickets are bought at the counter, with separate rates for Bangladeshi and foreign visitors. The site follows the Department of Archaeology's schedule, which normally means a Sunday closure and a short day on Monday, with summer and winter hours. Jamalganj, about 5 kilometres away, has the nearest railway station, and Naogaon and Joypurhat are the main towns for transport. Allow two to three hours.

Who studied at Somapura? The best-known name is Atisa Dipankara, the Bengali scholar who lived at the monastery before travelling to Tibet in the 11th century to teach. In his time Somapura was among the largest Buddhist centres of learning in South Asia, and texts copied there circulated as far as Tibet.

The monastery suffered in the 11th century, when the army of Jatavarman of the Varman dynasty attacked the Varendra region and fire destroyed part of the complex. It was repaired, but it declined for good during the rule of the Sena kings in the second half of the 12th century.

On the ground, walk along the outer wall first to see how the rows of cells line the enclosure, then circle the central temple, where the lowest terrace holds the best preserved terracotta plaques. Shade is limited, so carry water and a hat in the warm months. The site museum is small and can be seen in half an hour.