Ras Al Khaimah

Old town, Jebel Jais and the north coast from a beach resort

Three days suit Ras Al Khaimah: one in the old town, one on Jebel Jais and one on the north coast, with a beach resort as your base. The resorts line the coast at Al Marjan Island and Al Hamra. The town itself straddles a mangrove-fringed creek, with the old quarter on the west bank and Al Nakheel on the east. Behind both rise the Hajar Mountains. Pick a beach base and treat the rest as half-day outings by car.

• Day one, the town: the National Museum occupies Al Hisn Fort in the old quarter. From there walk to the old souq and the fishing harbour, then follow the Corniche along the creek at dusk. On the way back to the resorts, stop at Al Jazirah Al Hamra. Its inhabitants left between 1968 and 1971, abandoning a pearling village of some 500 houses built from coral blocks and beach rock; go in daylight only.
• Day two, the mountain: a 36 km road, finished in 2019, hairpins up Jebel Jais to the Viewing Deck Park at 1,250 m. Seven decks look over the range, and 1484 by Puro is the highest restaurant in the emirate. The zipline, opened in February 2018, runs 2,832 m with speeds up to 150 km/h. Winter sunsets come early (between 17:30 and 18:00), so set off in the morning.
• Day three, the north coast: climb to Dhayah Fort, the hilltop stronghold taken by British troops in 1819, for a view over the palm groves. Then board a traditional boat at Al Rams for Suwaidi Pearls. The tour takes about 2.5 hours, visits a pearl farm on a floating pontoon and leaves at 10am, 12:30pm and 3pm. Prehistoric Shimal, with Umm an-Nar tombs from 2600 to 2000 BC, is close by.

With more time, hikers head for the Stairway to Heaven track at Ghalilah, and drivers cross into Omani Musandam. Call Suwaidi Pearls ahead to reserve a seat. For New Year's Eve, register your car early for a parking or camping spot, and book hotels on Al Marjan Island well before the fireworks.

A Dubai taxi may bring you north, but at the rank ask for a standard cream car, because the black limousines charge far more. Your rental company must supply a no-objection letter (Al Salamah Cars in Al Nakheel does), and Omani insurance is sold at the border.

Friday camel races, freezing Jebel Jais nights and 43°C summers

Visit between October and March, when camel races run on Friday mornings and New Year's Eve brings fireworks off Al Marjan Island. January afternoons average 25°C on the coast, yet the top of Jebel Jais can drop below freezing. July and August average 43°C, with dangerous humidity.

Coast and summit behave like two climates. January afternoons in town average 25°C, with nights around 12°C. March is normally the wettest month, with around 30 mm. The mountain is far colder: -5°C has been measured at the top in winter, snow fell in February 2017, and snow mixed with hail covered the peak again in January 2020. Pack a warm layer for any winter drive up, even on a beach holiday.

Summer is harsh even by Gulf standards. In July and August the average high is 43°C. Humidity is what makes that heat dangerous. The airport weather station holds the highest reliably recorded wet-bulb reading, 36.3°C. Above about 35°C the body can no longer cool itself by sweating, even in healthy adults. Between May and September, do anything active at dawn or in the last hour of light, and keep hikes short.

Camel races run early on Friday mornings from October to March. New Year's Eve brings a fireworks and drone show over the water between Al Marjan Island and Al Hamra Village; the event already holds 14 Guinness World Records. Cars need advance registration for parking or camping, and free shuttles run from the car parks. The Ras Al Khaimah Fine Arts Festival also draws visitors to the heritage village at Al Jazirah Al Hamra.

Weekends change the feel of the town. The creekside Corniche, with its green promenade, draws most of its visitors then. Come midweek for a quieter walk.

Lebanese grills, Indian value meals and Emirati popular kitchens

Most residents treat Lebanese food with Arabic and Indian touches as the local cuisine, and Al Nakheel has the best-value Indian cooking. Emirati dishes turn up mainly in plain popular-kitchen restaurants, and alcohol is served only in hotels. A meal starts with mezze such as hummus and mutabal or falafel. Kebabs, biryani, fish or lamb follow.

Al Nakheel, east of the creek, is nicknamed little India for its shops and large Indian community. That is where the best-value Indian restaurants are. Vegetarians manage well across town: most menus include a meat-free dish, and a few restaurants are entirely vegetarian.

The markets are worth a look even if you are not cooking. The fish market in the old market area shows the day's catch from the Gulf. The vegetable market sits under the RAK Bridge, colourful even though most of its produce is imported.

Arabic coffee, tea and freshly squeezed juice are sold almost everywhere. Evenings are for shisha cafés, and the Corniche is the favourite strip for them. Alcohol is served only in hotels, although residents can buy it for private use. Weekend picnics are a local habit as well; families cook out in Saqr Park and along the Corniche, while campers take to the mountains.