Reading travel guide
Abbey ruins, the Thames and the August bank holiday festival
Reading grew where the Kennet meets the Thames, and today this large Berkshire town pairs medieval abbey ruins and good museums with fast trains to London. May to September brings the best weather, and a single day covers the centre. Costs are very high, and most visa-free visitors need a UK ETA.
Reading is a large town in Berkshire, about 40 miles west of London, at the point where the River Kennet meets the Thames. The borough has around 184,000 residents and the built-up area just over 200,000, making it one of the biggest towns in England without city status.
Its history centres on Reading Abbey, founded in 1121 by Henry I, who is buried within its grounds. The abbey was largely destroyed in 1538 at the dissolution of the monasteries, and its flint ruins now stand beside Forbury Gardens, guarded by the Maiwand Lion, the town's unofficial symbol.
Later Reading made its living from the 'Three Bs': beer, bulbs and seeds, and biscuits, the last from Huntley & Palmers, which baked here from 1822 to 1976. Oscar Wilde was held in Reading Gaol from 1895 to 1897, and Jane Austen attended school in the Abbey Gateway as a girl.
Today Reading is a business and shopping centre, a major rail junction and the western terminus of the Elizabeth line. Most visitors know it for the Reading Festival, held every August bank holiday weekend since 1971, but the riverside paths and museums make it a sensible stop on the way west.
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Top things to do in Reading
Abbey ruins, a riverside garden, two museums and the Thames Path, all close to the station.
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Best time to visit Reading
Month by month, so you can pick the weather and the crowds you want.
Highs of 17 to 23°C and the driest months, good for the Thames Path.
Reading Festival fills trains and rooms across the town.
Highs around 8°C and the wettest months; the museums are the main draw.
Avoid the August bank holiday weekend unless you are going to the festival; rooms are scarce and trains are packed.
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Getting there
Reading station, the Elizabeth line and Heathrow
Reading is one of the busiest rail junctions in the country. Great Western Railway trains run fast to London Paddington, and the Elizabeth line, which ends here, continues through central London. Heathrow is the nearest airport, linked to Reading station by the RailAir coach. Drivers come in on the M4.
- Reading station
- Main line hub with GWR and Elizabeth line services
- London Heathrow (LHR)
- Nearest airport; RailAir coach to Reading station
- M4
- Main road route from London and the west
- Off-peak tickets to London are much cheaper than peak fares; check times before travelling.
Staying safe
A typical English town centre
Reading is generally safe for visitors. Take normal care at night around the town centre and at busy times around the station.
- Station
- Watch bags in crowds at peak times
- Festival weekend
- Keep valuables to a minimum
- Keep an eye on belongings in busy bars at weekends.
- Plan your last train if visiting from London.
Where to stay
Station quarter and the Oracle riverside
Business hotels cluster around the station and town centre, which keeps everything walkable. Prices rise sharply on weekdays when business travel is busy and over festival weekend.
- Station area
- Chain hotels, quick trains to London
- The Oracle and Kennet side
- Restaurants on the river, shopping centre on the doorstep
- Caversham
- Quieter, north of the Thames
Getting around
Walking the centre, Reading Buses
The centre is compact: the station, Forbury Gardens, the abbey ruins and The Oracle are all a short walk apart. Reading Buses, the council-owned operator, runs a dense network across the town.
- On foot
- Station, abbey, Forbury Gardens and Oracle within about 1 km
- Reading Buses
- Municipal bus company covering the town
- Thames Path
- Riverside walking and cycling east and west
- The riverside paths can flood after heavy rain in winter.
Know before you go
What makes Reading worth the trip, and what catches visitors out.
Why travelers love it
- The Reading Abbey ruins, where Henry I lies buried.
- Forbury Gardens and the Maiwand Lion, next to the abbey.
- The Bayeux Tapestry replica at the Reading Museum.
- Walking the Thames Path out of town towards Caversham and Sonning.
Good to know
- The festival books out the town over August bank holiday.
- Reading is a town, not a city, despite its size.
- Peak trains to London are expensive; travel off-peak where you can.
Trip fit
BookingMentor editorial ratings out of 5, based on a first-time visitor's experience.
Weather in Reading, month by month
Reading has a mild Thames Valley climate, usually warm and dry enough for the August bank holiday festival. Select a month to compare Met Office 1991-2020 figures logged at Reading University.
Climate figures are approximate 1991-2020 averages for Reading University (Met Office, via Wikipedia).
Abbey ruins, Forbury Gardens and the Kennet in a day
One day covers Reading's history on foot from the station. See the Maiwand Lion in Forbury Gardens, the ruins of Reading Abbey founded by Henry I in 1121, the Abbey Gateway and Reading Gaol, then the Victorian Bayeux Tapestry replica in the Reading Museum. End the day at The Oracle beside the Kennet.
From the station, walk south a few minutes to Forbury Gardens, where the Maiwand Lion stands on its plinth. The gardens back onto the ruins of Reading Abbey, founded by Henry I in 1121 and largely destroyed in 1538; a memorial marks the king's burial in the grounds.
Next door, the Abbey Gateway is where Jane Austen went to school in the 1780s, and Reading Gaol, where Oscar Wilde was held from 1895 to 1897, stands beyond the ruins.
After lunch, visit the Reading Museum in the town hall for its full-size Victorian replica of the Bayeux Tapestry and displays on the Huntley & Palmers biscuit factory. Finish along the Kennet at The Oracle, where restaurants line the water.
With more time, take a bus to the Museum of English Rural Life in East Reading, or walk the Thames Path towards Caversham.
Huntley & Palmers biscuits, beer and dining by The Oracle
Reading built its name on the 'Three Bs' of beer, bulbs and seeds, and biscuits, with Huntley & Palmers baking here from 1822 to 1976. Today's food is international: chain restaurants line the river at The Oracle, while independent Asian, Caribbean and Middle Eastern restaurants spread along the Oxford Road and through the centre.
Reading's old industries were the 'Three Bs': beer, bulbs and seeds, and biscuits. Huntley & Palmers made biscuits here from 1822 to 1976 and was once among the best-known food brands in the world; its history is told at the Reading Museum.
Today food is less local than international, reflecting a diverse town. The riverside at The Oracle has chain restaurants, while independent cafés and Asian, Caribbean and Middle Eastern restaurants are spread through the town centre and along the Oxford Road.
For a pub by the water, follow the Thames towards Caversham or Sonning.
The August Reading Festival and Thames Path summers
The Reading Festival takes over the August bank holiday weekend every year, as it has since 1971, so book well ahead or avoid those dates. May to September brings highs of 17C to 23C and the least rain, best for the Thames Path. October and November are wettest, and winter highs sit near 8C.
The Reading Festival has run every August bank holiday weekend since 1971 and is one of the largest music festivals in the UK. Trains and hotels are under heavy pressure that weekend, so plan around it unless you have a ticket.
From May to September, highs reach 17 to 23°C and rain is at its lowest, which is the time for walking the Thames Path or hiring a boat on the river.
October and November are the wettest months. Winter is mild but damp, with highs around 8°C, and the town's museums are the best use of a day.
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How we research our Reading travel guide
Train links, festival dates and museum details in Reading are updated when they change. Background draws on published Reading history, VisitBritain and the GOV.UK ETA pages.
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Quick answers to the questions travellers ask most before visiting Reading.
Getting there
About 40 miles west. Fast Great Western Railway trains run to London Paddington, and the Elizabeth line runs through central London from Reading.
Reading is one of the busiest rail junctions in the country. Great Western Railway trains run fast to London Paddington, and the Elizabeth line, which ends here, continues through central London. Heathrow is the nearest airport, linked to Reading station by the RailAir coach.
Timing & weather
Every August bank holiday weekend, as it has been since 1971. It is the UK's largest festival of its kind apart from Glastonbury.
Yes, it is the nearest major town to the west of Heathrow; the RailAir coach links Reading station with the airport.
The best time to visit Reading is May to Sep. Highs of 17 to 23°C, the driest stretch of the year for river walks.
- Late spring and summer: May - September (Highs of 17 to 23°C and the driest months, good for the Thames Path)
- Festival weekend: August bank holiday (Reading Festival fills trains and rooms across the town)
- Winter: November - February (Highs around 8°C and the wettest months; the museums are the main draw)
General
Henry I, who founded the abbey in 1121, is buried within the abbey grounds.
At the Reading Museum in the town hall, which holds a full-size Victorian replica of the tapestry.
A large cast-iron lion in Forbury Gardens commemorating soldiers of the 66th Regiment killed in the Afghan war; it is the town's unofficial symbol.
Yes, in Reading Gaol from 1895 to 1897, an experience he wrote about in The Ballad of Reading Gaol.
Yes. The Thames Path passes through the town, and the towpath of the Kennet runs into the centre past The Oracle.
A museum run by the University of Reading in East Reading, covering farming, crafts and country life in England.
No. Despite several bids, Reading has town status and is one of the largest towns in England.
The centre is compact: the station, Forbury Gardens, the abbey ruins and The Oracle are all a short walk apart. Reading Buses, the council-owned operator, runs a dense network across the town.
Visa & documents
Visitors who do not need a UK visa, including citizens of the EU, the US, Canada and Australia, must get an Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) online before they travel. Other nationalities need a Standard Visitor visa. Irish citizens need neither.
Health & safety
Reading is generally safe for visitors. Take normal care at night around the town centre and at busy times around the station.