Salvador

Three days between the upper town, Barra and Bonfim

Salvador rewards three days: the upper town's Terreiro de Jesus, São Francisco church and Museu Afro-Brasileiro, then Pelourinho and Santo Antônio Além do Carmo; the Elevador Lacerda down to the Mercado Modelo and the beaches of Barra on day two; and the Bonfim church with its ribbons on day three.

Day one, upper town. Start early at Terreiro de Jesus and the cathedral, then walk to the Igreja de São Francisco before the tour groups arrive. Spend the late morning in the Museu Afro-Brasileiro, which covers the slave trade and the city that grew from it. After lunch, drift down to Largo do Pelourinho and on to Santo Antônio Além do Carmo for the bay views. If it is a Tuesday, stay for the evening music.

Day two, lower town and the sea. Ride the Elevador Lacerda down to the Mercado Modelo for crafts and to watch capoeira outside. In the afternoon head south to Barra: swim at Porto da Barra, then walk the seafront to the Farol da Barra for sunset. Eat dinner in Rio Vermelho.

Day three, Bonfim or the bay. Take a taxi north to the Igreja do Nosso Senhor do Bonfim and buy a ribbon. Then choose: the ferry from São Joaquim to Itaparica for a quiet beach afternoon, or the bars of Ribeira nearby for a long seafood lunch.

Dendê, acarajé and moqueca on Bahian tables

Start with acarajé, a black-eyed-pea fritter fried in orange dendê palm oil and filled with vatapá, caruru and dried shrimp, sold by baianas in white at Terreiro de Jesus, Rio Vermelho and Barra; say "quente" for chilli. For a sit-down meal, order moqueca baiana, fish or shrimp stewed with coconut milk and dendê.

Bahian cooking is built on African techniques, coconut milk and dendê, the orange palm oil that colours almost everything. The dish to try first is acarajé: a ball of black-eyed-pea dough deep-fried in dendê, split and filled with vatapá (a thick paste of bread, shrimp and peanuts), caruru (okra) and dried shrimp. Its steamed cousin, abará, is wrapped in banana leaf. Both are sold by baianas in white dresses at Terreiro de Jesus, in Rio Vermelho and on Barra's seafront; say "quente" if you want chilli, "frio" if not.

For a sit-down meal order moqueca baiana, fish or shrimp stewed in a clay pot with coconut milk, dendê, tomatoes and coriander, served with rice and farofa. Bobó de camarão, shrimp in a cassava cream, is richer still. Portions are large and meant to be shared.

Pelourinho's restaurants are convenient but aimed at visitors; Rio Vermelho is where locals eat. Finish with cocada, a coconut sweet sold from trays all over the old town. Dendê is heavy, so pace yourself on the first day.

Bonfim ribbons, Iemanjá and Carnival on the Salvador calendar

Salvador's year runs on festivals: the Lavagem do Bonfim in January, when baianas wash the church steps; the Festa de Iemanjá in Rio Vermelho on 2 February; and Carnival, usually in February, with bands on trucks along the Barra-Ondina and Campo Grande circuits for almost a week. December to March brings highs near 31°C.

Salvador's year runs on festivals. In January the Lavagem do Bonfim sees baianas in white wash the steps of the Bonfim church after a long procession from the lower town. On 2 February, Rio Vermelho holds the Festa de Iemanjá, when crowds carry flowers and gifts to the sea for the sea goddess. Then comes Carnival, usually in February: trucks carrying bands roll along the Barra-Ondina and Campo Grande circuits for almost a week, and the old town fills with drum groups. Our Salvador de Bahia Carnival guide covers the circuits and how to join a bloco.

The weather favours this stretch. December to March brings highs around 31C, lows near 24C and between about 60 and 150 mm of rain a month. The rains build from April, which averages about 285 mm, peak in May at roughly 300 mm and ease through August. July and August are the coolest months, with highs of 27C, and outside festival weeks they bring fewer visitors and lower demand for rooms.

September to November is the quiet pick: dry, warm (28-30C) and without festival crowds, which makes it the best time for the beaches of Itaparica and the long walks of the old town.