Tinos

Evangelistria, the Volax boulders and the marble lanes of Pyrgos

Three days suit Tinos. Spend the first in Chora at the Panagia Evangelistria and the Monastery of Kechrovouni, with a swim at Kionia by the sanctuary of Poseidon and Amphitrite; climb Exomvourgo and visit the Volax boulders on the second; and walk the marble lanes of Pyrgos, the island's marble-carving village, on the third.

Day one, Chora. Walk up the avenue from the quay to the Panagia Evangelistria in the morning, before tour groups arrive, and see the icon and the crypt chapel. Afterwards drive up to the Monastery of Kechrovouni, linked to Saint Pelagia, whose vision led to the icon's discovery in 1823. Spend late afternoon at Agios Fokas or Kionia, where the ancient sanctuary of Poseidon and Amphitrite lies by the shore, and eat at the harbour.

Day two, the centre. Climb Exomvourgo early for the Venetian ruins, then drop to Volax for its boulders and basket workshops. Walk the old path to Falatados, and drive back through the dovecote valleys around Tarampados in late light.

Day three, the north-west. Spend the morning in Pyrgos: the Museum of Marble Crafts, the Tinian Artists Museum and the Chalepas house. Continue down to Panormos for a swim and fish lunch. On the way back, stop at Kardiani and Isternia, terraced villages that hang above the sea.

Louza, kopanisti and Tinian artichokes at village tavernas

Tinos is a food island, and many Greeks visit partly to eat. Order louza, cured spiced pork fillet, spreadable kopanisti cheese, spring artichokes and froutalia, a thick omelette with potatoes and sausage, at village tavernas in Pyrgos, Panormos, Kardiani and Volax, where terraces look over the sea.

Tinos takes its food seriously, and many Greeks come partly to eat. Louza, a cured pork fillet seasoned with spices, is the island's signature charcuterie. Local cheeses include spicy, spreadable kopanisti, and the island's artichokes appear on menus in spring, fried, stewed or in omelettes.

Village tavernas are where Tinos eats best: places in Pyrgos, Panormos, Kardiani and Volax serve home cooking on terraces with sea views. Fish is the order at Panormos and Agios Romanos. Chora has the widest choice and stays open latest, with bakeries selling almond sweets that pilgrims take home.

Finish with a glass of local raki or tsikoudia. Small wineries on the island's granite soils have also earned attention among Greek wine drinkers.

15 August on Tinos and the quieter feast of 25 March

The great day on Tinos is the Dormition on 15 August, when pilgrims from across Greece arrive, many crawling from the harbour to the church, and the icon is carried through Chora; rooms are scarce. The Annunciation on 25 March, also Greek Independence Day, draws pilgrims in cooler weather and smaller crowds.

The great day is the Dormition, 15 August. Pilgrims arrive from across Greece for the Dormition of the Virgin Mary in Tinos, many crawling from the harbour to the church on their knees, and the icon is carried in procession through Chora. It is moving to witness, but the town is crowded and rooms are scarce.

The church's own name feast is the Annunciation on 25 March, which coincides with Greek Independence Day. It is one of the church's four major feasts and the route from the port fills with pilgrims, though the weather is cooler and the rest of the island stays quiet. Easter is also a big week on the island, celebrated by both Orthodox and Catholic villages.

For island-hopping, Mykonos is the obvious next stop, and boats also continue to Paros and Naxos. Travellers heading home through Athens can spend a night near Piraeus or in Athens itself.