Athens

Two days of walking loops around the Acropolis, plus a coastal third

Two full days cover the ancient core of Athens, since nearly every major sight lies within walking distance of the Acropolis. Climb the rock at its 08:00 opening, see the Acropolis Museum as the heat builds and walk on through the Ancient Agora; a third day suits Sounion, Aegina or Delphi.

A third earns its place only if you leave the city for the coast, an island or Delphi. Nearly every major sight sits within walking distance of the Acropolis rock, so plan the days as walking loops. Climb the rock when the gates open (08:00 in the April to August timetable), drop down to the Acropolis Museum as the heat builds, then drift west through the Ancient Agora to Thissio for the evening.

• Day one: the Acropolis and its museum, the whitewashed lanes of Anafiotika, Plaka, then dinner in Koukaki or along Adrianou.
• Day two: the National Archaeological Museum first thing, because it is the busiest museum in town; the shade of the National Gardens at midday; Lycabettus at sunset, on foot or by funicular; bars in Psyrri or Gazi afterwards.
• Day three: the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion for sunset, a hydrofoil from Piraeus to Aegina (about 40 minutes), or the KTEL coach to Delphi, roughly 3 hours each way.

Buy the timed Acropolis ticket online before you fly, since the early slots go first in summer. Island sailings out of Piraeus are worth reserving for July and August.

Rent a car only for day trips to Sounion or Delphi; otherwise KTEL coaches for Delphi leave from the Liosion terminal, and Peloponnese buses from Kifissos.

April, May and October in Athens, and the midsummer heat

Visit Athens in April and May, when highs reach 21°C and then 27°C with little rain, or from late September into October. July and August average 34°C and heatwaves can shut the Acropolis at midday, while winter days of 13°C to 14°C bring short queues, lower hotel rates and shorter site hours.

The concrete holds the summer heat long after dark. The city has been called the hottest on the European mainland and now employs a chief heat officer.

April and May are the sweet spot. Late September and October run a close second as highs fall from 30°C to 24°C. In winter the Acropolis closes at 17:00 in December. Snow is rare but not unknown; storms in February 2021 and January 2022 covered the whole city.

Two calendar fixtures change a visit. The Athens Festival stages theatre and concerts from May to October. Orthodox Easter brings the candlelit procession down the hill on Holy Saturday night, but also shop closures and full ferries over the long weekend.

Souvlaki, tavernas and late dinners in Athens

Eat souvlaki on the move in Athens: a pita-souvlaki at the counter costs a fraction of the plated version, and Thanasis, Savvas and Bairaktaris compete at Monastiraki. For sit-down meals, pick a taverna on Adrianou where Greeks are eating, order shared plates such as stamnaki, and expect dinner after 20:00.

Lunch on the move means souvlaki: pork or chicken grilled on a skewer and rolled into a pita with tomato, onion and tzatziki. The snack chains Grigoris and Everest sell cheese pies and spinach pies on almost every corner.

Adrianou, running below the north face of the Acropolis from Thissio to Plaka, is lined with them; the view adds to the bill, so choose one where Greeks are eating too. Kolonaki is the smarter dining district. Order plates to share, and look out for stamnaki, beef and potatoes baked with cheese in a small clay pot. Each neighbourhood has a weekly laiki street market for fresh produce and fish. Sunday mornings bring the flea market to Plateia Avissinia at the west end of Ifaistou.

Most Athenians will not consider eating out before 20:00, and clubbers get ready around midnight; in summer many clubs move to the beach. A frappe in the café of the National Gardens is the local way to sit out the afternoon heat.

English is widely spoken, yet a kalispera (good evening) on arrival still warms the room.