Santa Maria della Salute

The Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute stands on the tip of the Dorsoduro district, at the point where the Grand Canal meets the Giudecca Canal and the St Mark's Basin. Its large dome is one of the most recognisable shapes on the Venice skyline.

In 1630 the Venetian Senate vowed to build a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary if the city was saved from a plague that killed about a third of its population. The young architect Baldassare Longhena won the design competition, and work began in 1631. The church stands on a platform of about 1,000,000 wooden piles. It was largely finished by 1681, the year before Longhena's death.

The church has an octagonal plan under a large dome, with a smaller dome over the sanctuary, and is decorated outside with large stone scrolls and statues. The high altar holds a Byzantine icon of the Virgin brought from Crete, with a sculptural group by Josse de Corte showing the Virgin driving the plague out of Venice. The sacristy contains major paintings by Titian and Tintoretto's Marriage at Cana. Every 21 November, during the Festa della Madonna della Salute, Venetians cross a temporary pontoon bridge over the Grand Canal to visit the church and light candles.

Entry to the church is free, with a small fee to visit the sacristy. The nearest vaporetto stop is Salute on line 1. Visitors should dress respectfully, as the basilica is an active place of worship.

Titian and Tintoretto in the sacristy

The sacristy holds the most important paintings in the basilica. Titian's altarpiece shows St Mark enthroned with Saints Cosmas, Damian, Sebastian and Roch, the saints Venetians called on against plague. Above, his ceiling paintings show David and Goliath, Abraham and Isaac, and Cain and Abel. Titian's Pentecost hangs in the main church.

Tintoretto's Marriage at Cana, dated 1561, fills one wall of the great sacristy. Look for the painter's self-portrait among the guests. Eight round paintings of the Doctors of the Church and the Evangelists complete the room.

The walk from the Accademia bridge and the best dome views

The church stands beside the Dogana da Mar, the old sea customs house at the tip of Dorsoduro, now the Punta della Dogana contemporary art museum. The walk from the Accademia bridge takes about ten minutes along quiet calli. The best views of the dome come from the water: from the Piazzetta San Marco, from the Accademia bridge, or from vaporetto line 1 as it passes along the Grand Canal.

Candles and castradina on 21 November

On 21 November, the votive bridge of boats is set up across the Grand Canal from Santa Maria del Giglio. Families cross to light candles for good health and eat castradina, a stew of smoked mutton and cabbage served in Venice only for this feast. Expect long queues at the door from morning until evening.