Scuola Grande di San Rocco

The Scuola Grande di San Rocco stands in the San Polo district of Venice, beside the church of San Rocco and close to the Frari basilica. It is the seat of a lay religious confraternity founded in 1478 and dedicated to St Roch, a protector against plague, whose relics are kept in the neighbouring church of San Rocco.

The building was constructed between 1515 and 1560 by several architects, including Pietro Bon, Sante Lombardo, Antonio Abbondi, known as Scarpagnino, and Giangiacomo dei Grigi. In 1564 the confraternity held a competition to decorate the ceiling of the Sala dell'Albergo. Tintoretto won it by installing a finished painting, St Roch in Glory, as a gift, while his rivals submitted sketches, and he went on to paint for the Scuola for many years.

Tintoretto's cycle includes around sixty paintings, all still in their original places. The Sala dell'Albergo is dominated by his Crucifixion of 1565, about 12 metres wide. The great upper hall has Old Testament scenes on the ceiling and New Testament scenes on the walls, with carved wooden panels by Francesco Pianta. The ground floor hall shows scenes from the life of the Virgin. The building also holds works by Titian and Palma il Giovane.

The confraternity still exists and manages the building. A full ticket costs €12. The building has a long musical history, and Stravinsky premiered a work here in 1958.

Using the hand mirrors to study the upper hall ceilings

The ceiling paintings of the upper hall are the hardest part of the visit, because they are high and dark. The Scuola provides hand mirrors so you can study the panels without straining your neck. Walk the hall slowly and compare the Old Testament scenes overhead with the New Testament scenes on the walls, which Tintoretto planned as a single programme.

Give the Sala dell'Albergo at least 15 minutes. The Crucifixion fills the end wall, and Tintoretto's winning ceiling oval, St Roch in Glory, is directly overhead. The Frari basilica, with Titian's Assumption, is a two-minute walk away and makes a natural pairing.