Siwa Oasis

Shali, the Oracle temple and the Great Sand Sea over three days

Give Siwa three days after the long road in. Explore the mud-brick fortress town of Shali and the rock-cut tombs of Gebel el-Mawta on day one, cycle to the Temple of the Oracle, Cleopatra's spring and Fatnas at sunset on day two, and spend day three in the Great Sand Sea by 4x4.

Day one: recover from the bus, then walk up into Shali, the 13th-century fortress town. Its lanes are crumbling but you can still trace gates and walls, and one mosque has been repaired and is still in use. Afterwards, look in on the small museum and the area round Market Square. Before dark, walk about 1 km north to Gebel el-Mawta, the Mountain of the Dead, to see the rock-cut tombs.

Day two is a bike loop. Ride 4 km east to the hill of Aghurmi and the Temple of the Oracle, then continue 400 m to the scant remains of the temple of Umm Ubeida, where a single wall still stands. Another 900 m brings you to Cleopatra's spring for a swim and a coffee at the pool. In the late afternoon, pedal out 6 km west of town to Fatnas, once an island in Lake Siwa, for tea under the palms as the sun sets over the salt water.

Day three belongs to the desert. Book a 4x4 with a local driver into the Great Sand Sea for dunes, a cold spring in the sand and sandboarding, returning after sunset. If you are heading back towards the coast, Alexandria makes a good next stop after the long drive north.

Siwan dates, olive oil and red tea around Market Square

Siwa is famous for dates and olives. Shops around Market Square sell dates loose, boxed or stuffed with almonds or chocolate, with olive oil from the same groves, best fresh at the autumn harvest. Restaurants cook stews, couscous and stuffed pigeon to order, alcohol is not served, and strong Siwan red tea comes with everything.

The oasis grows some of Egypt's most prized dates, and the shops around Market Square sell them in every form: loose, boxed, or stuffed with almonds or chocolate. Olives and olive oil come from the same groves and make good gifts. Autumn, when the date harvest is under way, is the best time to taste them fresh.

Restaurants are informal and mostly clustered near the centre. Expect vegetable stews, couscous, grilled meats, pizza and fresh salads, cooked to order, so meals can take a while. Stuffed pigeon is a local favourite worth ordering, and fish from the lakes sometimes appears too.

Tea is central to hospitality. Siwan red tea, often brewed strong and sweet, is served on desert trips and in most restaurants, and you can buy boxes of the leaves in the date and olive shops. Green tea with mint is the other everyday glass. Alcohol is not served in town, which suits the place: evenings revolve around food, tea and conversation.

Siyaha in October and the best months for Siwa

Visit Siwa in October, November, February, March or April, when highs sit between about 20C and 33C; June to August reach 40C. The year's highlight is Siyaha, the Reconciliation Festival, held for three days around the October full moon, when Siwans gather on Gebel Dakrour for shared meals and Sufi zikr.

Each autumn the oasis gathers for Siyaha, also called the Reconciliation Festival. For three days around the October full moon, Siwans gather on Gebel Dakrour, settle disputes, share communal meals of meat and bread, and the men join Sufi zikr chanting into the night. It coincides with the date harvest, and respectful guests are received warmly.

Timing matters for comfort too. The climate is extreme desert: highs of 40C from June to August and barely any rain all year. October cools to 33C and November to 26C, while December and January sit around 20-21C with nights falling to 6-8C. March and April warm back up to 26-32C. That puts the best weather in October, November, February, March and April.

Plan for the road whatever the season. The overnight bus from Cairo can be cold and draughty in winter, and in summer it is better to arrive in the evening and rest through the midday heat. Many visitors break the long drive on the Mediterranean coast at Marsa Matruh.