Zadar

St Donatus, Kalelarga and the Sea Organ in one walking day

Zadar's old town peninsula is small enough for one day. Start at the Roman forum and the Church of St Donatus, climb the bell tower of St Anastasia's Cathedral for views to Ugljan, Pašman and the Velebit range, walk Kalelarga, the main street, and end on the waterfront at the Sea Organ and the Greeting to the Sun for sunset.

Start at the Roman forum in the morning and look inside the Church of St Donatus, then climb the bell tower of St Anastasia's Cathedral before the heat builds. The view takes in the whole peninsula, the islands of Ugljan and Pašman across the channel and the Velebit range behind the city.

Walk along Kalelarga, the main street, to Five Wells Square and the park on the old bastion above it, then out through the Land Gate with its lion of St Mark. Cross back by barkajoli rowing boat and have lunch in the old town. Spend the hot afternoon swimming off the promenade steps, as the locals do.

In the evening, take a seat on the steps of the Sea Organ well before sunset and stay until the Greeting to the Sun starts to glow underfoot.

On day two, pick one trip: a boat to the Kornati islands, a long day at Plitvice Lakes on the Zagreb bus, or the canyons of Paklenica. Back in town, eat at a konoba in the old town and finish with a glass of maraschino at a bar along the walls.

Maraschino from marasca cherries, Pag cheese and island fish

Zadar's best-known flavour is maraschino, a clear liqueur distilled from the sour marasca cherry and made here for centuries; drink it neat after dinner or buy it in cherry chocolates. Old town konobas serve fish from the islands and Pag cheese, the hard sheep's cheese from the island of Pag.

Maraschino, a clear liqueur distilled from the sour marasca cherry, has been made here for centuries and was once shipped to royal courts around Europe.

The food draws on the islands and the Ravni Kotari plain behind the city. Paški sir, the hard sheep's cheese from the island of Pag, is the classic starter with pršut and olives, and lamb from Pag is the meat to order in spring and autumn. On the sea side, look for grilled fish sold by weight, mussels and brudet, a fish stew cooked with tomato and wine and served with polenta.

Konoba Tovar on Matice Dalmatinske is a small tavern serving local food, and Barbakan on Ruđera Boškovića has outdoor tables and a younger evening crowd. Gušti on Zrinsko Frankopanska makes good pizza. For a drink with a view, the bars along Krešimirova obala look over the bay on summer evenings. Morning shopping happens at the market inside the walls by the harbour.

Plitvice, Krka, the Kornati and Paklenica within a day of Zadar

Few Croatian cities have as many national parks within a day's reach as Zadar. Plitvice Lakes is a long day by bus or tour, so arrive early before the boardwalks fill; Krka is closer, boats run to the Kornati islands, and Paklenica's canyons in the Velebit suit hikers and climbers.

Plitvice Lakes, the chain of turquoise lakes and waterfalls inland, is a long day by bus: about half the coaches to Zagreb stop at the park, and summer tours go too. Arrive early, as the boardwalks fill by late morning in July and August. Krka, with its travertine falls, is south-east toward Šibenik and is easier by car.

Paklenica, on the slopes of Velebit near Starigrad, is the hikers' and climbers' choice, with two limestone canyons and marked trails. Go in May, June or September, when coastal highs sit between 21 and 25°C; in July and August the canyons are hot.

The Kornati archipelago, a national park of bare limestone islands to the south, is reached on full-day boat trips that include swimming stops. The same early-summer winds that make May and June good for sailing, steady from the south and south-east, make those boat days lively. Closer to home, ferries cross to Ugljan for quiet coves.

Nin, a short drive north, is a small island town in a lagoon with the tiny early medieval Church of the Holy Cross, sandy shallows and old salt pans.