Coimbra

Joanina Library at opening, Santa Cruz tombs by afternoon

Climb to the university first and buy a Joanina Library ticket for the earliest slot you can get. While you wait, see the Paço das Escolas, its ceremonial halls and the terrace over the river. After the library, walk down through the Alta to the fortress-like Sé Velha.

Continue to the Baixa for lunch on Rua das Azeiteiras, then visit the Monastery of Santa Cruz and the tombs of Afonso Henriques and Sancho I. Late in the afternoon, cross the bridge to Santa Clara for the old convent and the gardens of Quinta das Lágrimas. In the evening, find a Coimbra fado performance back in the old town.

A second morning fits Conímbriga, the Roman town to the south with its mosaic floors, or a slow look at the Machado de Castro museum in the old bishop's palace, built over the Roman forum's vaulted galleries.

Suckling pig, chanfana and convent pastries

Order leitão à Bairrada, suckling pig roasted with garlic and pepper until the skin crackles, with a red or sparkling Bairrada wine. Many locals drive to the roadside restaurants of Mealhada for it, though Coimbra's tascas serve it too. Chanfana, goat slow-cooked in red wine in clay pots, comes from the hills to the south-east.

The plate that defines central Portugal is leitão à Bairrada, suckling pig rubbed with garlic and pepper and roasted until the skin crackles like glass. The Bairrada wine country just north of Coimbra is its home, and many locals drive out to the roadside restaurants of Mealhada for it, but Coimbra's own tascas serve it too. Pair it with a red or sparkling Bairrada. The hills to the south-east contribute chanfana, goat slow-cooked in red wine in clay pots.

Rua das Azeiteiras, a narrow street in the Baixa, is lined with small traditional restaurants and is the place to start. The D. Pedro V market, beside the lift up to the Alta, is good for cheese, fruit and smoked sausage.

Coimbra's convents left a trail of sweets. Pastéis de Santa Clara are half-moon pastries filled with egg and almond, and arrufadas are soft, lightly sweet buns. After dinner, try a glass of licor beirão, a herbal liqueur made in the region, or one of the local aguardentes, distilled either from grapes or from what is left after pressing them.

Student seasons and Coimbra fado

Coimbra's year follows its university. Latada in autumn welcomes freshers with a parade of first-years dragging tin cans, and Queima das Fitas in May ends the academic year with a week of concerts, decorated floats and the burning of faculty ribbons. Both are loud and hard on light sleepers, so book early.

The university sets Coimbra's rhythm. Students in black capes fill the Alta during term, and the city's year has two great student parties. Latada, in the autumn, welcomes freshers with a parade of first-years dragging tin cans through the streets. Queima das Fitas, in May, marks the end of studies with a week of concerts, a parade of decorated floats and the burning of the faculty ribbons that gives the festival its name. Both are loud, joyful and hard on light sleepers.

Coimbra has its own fado, sung by men, traditionally students or former students in academic dress, to the Coimbra guitar. It is more serenade than lament, and at night by the Sé Velha the singing can still be heard on the steps. Several small venues in the old town hold regular performances.

Weather favours spring and autumn. May averages highs of 23°C with modest rain, while July and August climb to 28 to 29°C in this inland valley and the city empties of students. November to January each bring over 110 mm of rain.