Dambulla

Dambulla as a base for the cave temple, Sigiriya and Polonnaruwa

Two full days from Dambulla cover the cave temple and Sigiriya, and a third adds Polonnaruwa, 67 km east. The junction town makes a practical base camp for the Cultural Triangle, because nearly every major sight lies within an hour or two by road and guesthouses near the temple are cheap.

Its one big sight in town is the cave temple.

• Day one, the caves: the five cave shrines sit 160 m above the plain, reached by a ten-minute climb on stone stairs. Inside are 153 Buddha statues plus figures of three kings and four deities, under murals covering about 2,100 square metres; the complex dates back to the first century BCE. Buy your ticket on the side road with the car park, not beside the big golden Buddha, or you will have to walk round the hill to pay. At dusk, cross Ibbankatuwa Wewa to the small Sankassapura Temple, where a path lined with statues of monks leads up to a sunset view.
• Day two, Sigiriya: the rock is 17 km to the northeast. The gardens and the climb together take roughly an hour and a half; carry water, since none is sold inside. Pidurangala, a 20 to 30 minute scramble next door, is the place for sunrise with Sigiriya in view.
• Day three, further out: Polonnaruwa lies 67 km east; Minneriya and Kaudulla, the elephant parks, are 30 to 50 minutes north of Sigiriya. Anuradhapura is 2 to 3 hours away by bus.

Resorts such as Heritance Kandalama and Amaya Lake sit out by the reservoirs, while simple guesthouses cluster near the temple, roughly 1 km south of town. Compare hotels in both before deciding whether Dambulla or Sigiriya suits your plan.

To continue to Ella or Colombo, a rental car with a driver is the least stressful option.

Dry June and July, wet late-year months in the dry zone

Come between January and September if you can. June and July are the driest months, with roughly 15 and 24 mm of rain, while the northeast monsoon makes October to December wet, peaking near 281 mm in November. From March to September, climb the rocks before mid-morning, as highs reach 35°C.

The monthly figures on this page come from Anuradhapura, the nearest long-running weather station. They describe a climate quite unlike the coast. This is the dry zone. The driest stretch here is midsummer, exactly when the west and south coasts are at their wettest: June averages about 15 mm of rain and July 24 mm.

January and February are the comfortable months, with highs of 30 to 32°C and modest showers. By March and April the thermometer reaches 35°C, and April adds about 180 mm in thunderstorms.

The northeast monsoon makes October to December the wet season, with roughly 259 mm in October and 281 mm in November. Carry a rain jacket for the rock climbs, since the summit paths have little shelter.

Late in the dry season, elephants gather at Minneriya in large numbers, so a trip in August or September pairs the caves with one of the island's big wildlife spectacles. August is also the month for the Esala Perahera pageant in Kandy, 72 km to the south. Book rooms there early if you plan to combine the two. International cricket is played at the Rangiri Dambulla Stadium, built in just 167 days by the lake 2 km southwest of the centre.

Rice and curry, kottu and hoppers, often best at your guesthouse

Rice and curry at lunch, kottu roti at night and hoppers for breakfast cover most of what Dambulla eats. Restaurant choice in town is thin, so your guesthouse may cook the best meal of the day. Carry rupees, because the cave temple and Sankassapura both sell tickets for cash only.

Dambulla sits at a major road junction and is the country's main hub for vegetable distribution. Locals eat rice and curry for lunch: a mound of rice with several curries around it and a spoonful of pol sambol, the fiery relish of grated coconut, red chilli and lime juice. In the evening, look for kottu roti, chopped flatbread stir-fried with vegetables and your choice of meat. Hoppers and string hoppers are the breakfast dishes to look for.

Choice in town is limited, so your guesthouse kitchen may well be the best meal of the day. Benthota Bake House, in the centre, runs a food court with an air-conditioned café upstairs called Island Tea Co & Ceylon Coffee Club. Ariyam is a small café-restaurant where the owner, Sugath, cooks Sri Lankan food. For a decent coffee with air conditioning, Cafe De Skylark is on Kurunegala Road just southwest of the clock tower.

Bring cash. The cave temple sells tickets for rupees only, and so does Sankassapura. The People's Bank ATM does not add a local withdrawal fee; there is also a money changer inside a gold shop called Newa Dambulu Gold House near the clock tower.