Diyarbakır

Dağ Kapı to Mardin Kapı along the basalt walls

Two days in Diyarbakır start with the basalt walls: walk about 2.5 km from Dağ Kapı to Mardin Kapı for views over the Hevsel Gardens, then visit the Ulu Camii and Sülüklü Han in Sur. Day two brings breakfast at Hasan Paşa Hanı, the Surp Giragos church and the eleventh-century Dicle Bridge over the Tigris.

Morning, day one: begin at Dağ Kapı, the north gate, and climb onto the ramparts. Follow the black basalt walls south and west for about 2.5 km to Mardin Kapı, passing the small Tek Kapı gate and the Urfa Kapı on the way. The towers above the Hevsel Gardens give the finest view of the river plain.

Afternoon: drop into Sur for the Ulu Camii, the Great Mosque on Gazi Caddesi, then the houses of the poets Cahit Sıtkı Tarancı and Ahmed Arif just north of it. Rest with tea in the courtyard of Sülüklü Han. Evening: dinner near Dağ Kapı and a künefe from one of the dessert cafes on the same street.

Day two: start with breakfast at Hasan Paşa Hanı. Walk to Surp Giragos, the restored Armenian church, and the lanes around it, then take a taxi down to the eleventh-century Dicle Bridge (On Gözlü Köprü) over the Tigris. Return through the Hevsel Gardens in late afternoon, when the light turns the walls blue-black.

Ciğer kebabı, meftune and a Hasan Paşa Hanı breakfast

Diyarbakır's food is generous southeastern cooking. Start with ciğer kebabı, charcoal-grilled lamb liver wrapped in flatbread, at Dağ Kapı Ciğercisi by the north gate, and try meftune, the garlicky meat and vegetable stew. The local ritual is the long breakfast of many small dishes in the courtyard cafés of Hasan Paşa Hanı.

Diyarbakır's food is southeastern and generous. The local grill favourite is ciğer kebabı, cubes of lamb liver on skewers cooked over charcoal and wrapped in flatbread with onion and herbs; Dağ Kapı Ciğercisi by the north gate stays open into the small hours. Home-style dishes include ekşili etli dolma, sour stuffed vine leaves with meat, meftune, a garlicky meat and vegetable stew, and içli köfte, bulgur shells filled with spiced mince. Mehir is a warm mix of wheat, chickpeas and yoghurt.

The great local habit is the long breakfast. At Hasan Paşa Hanı, a stone caravanserai opposite the Ulu Camii, cafes lay out cheeses, olives, honey, eggs and breads in many small dishes, and it is busy from early morning.

For dessert, try künefe, hot shredded pastry with melted cheese in syrup, or kadayıf. Saim Usta, just outside the north gate, and Hacı Levent Usta on Hz Süleyman Caddesi are both dessert specialists. Tea gardens line the walls; alcohol is limited to some restaurants.

Hevsel Gardens, Nevruz and the road south to Mardin

Go to Diyarbakır in April, May or October, when highs run from 21C to 27C; July and August average 39C. Nevruz on 21 March is the biggest public event, joyful and also political, so watch from the edges. Mardin, Batman and Urfa are the natural onward trips by road or train.

Climate dictates when to come. July and August average 39C with essentially no rain, and June and September are not much cooler at 33-34C. Winter is the opposite: January highs of 7C, nights around -2C and 60-75 mm of rain a month. April (21C) and May (27C) and October (26C) are the comfortable windows, and spring is when the Hevsel Gardens below the walls are at their greenest.

The biggest public event is Nevruz, the spring new year on 21 March, celebrated with large gatherings, bonfires and music. It is a joyful day for many residents but also a political one, so watch from the edges and leave if crowds become tense.

For a day trip, Mardin lies south on the edge of the Mesopotamian plain, its honey-coloured old town stacked on a hillside. The Tigris also leads east towards Batman, and the express train continues that way to Kurtalan. Further west, Urfa makes a natural next stop, and travellers heading for the Aegean can fly on to Izmir or Antalya, directly or via Istanbul.