Kelaniya Duruthu Perahera

No. Watching from the roadside is free, as it is for almost every perahera in Sri Lanka. Some hotels and tour operators sell transport packages for the evening, but no ticket is required to stand along the route.

According to the Mahavamsa chronicle, the Buddha visited Kelaniya on his third journey to the island, and the temple stands on the spot believed to have been sanctified by that visit. Duruthu poya itself commemorates his first visit to Sri Lanka. That double link is why the January procession draws so many pilgrims.

The procession was inaugurated in 1927 by Don Walter Wijewardene, then Basnayake Nilame of the temple's Vibhishana devale, to mark the Buddha's first visit to the island and the start of restoration work at Kelaniya. It was modelled on the Esala Perahera of Kandy, which is why you see the same mix of drummers, whip crackers and dancers. A division for the god Vishnu was added in 1930 and one for the Kataragama deity in 1954.

The elephants are temple and privately owned animals, and their use in processions is debated in Sri Lanka by animal welfare groups. Whatever your view, do not touch them, use flash or make sudden noises as they pass. Firecrackers and crowds can unsettle an elephant, so always leave yourself room to step back.

Yes, and it is worth going in daylight to see the image house murals by the artist Solias Mendis, painted in the mid-20th century and showing scenes from the Buddha's life and the island's history. Daytime is much calmer, though on procession days preparations take over parts of the grounds.

Photographs of the procession from the roadside are fine, and most locals film it on their phones. Switch off your flash near the elephants and do not step into the procession line for a better angle. Inside the temple, ask before photographing anyone at worship.

Food stalls set up near the temple selling short eats, kottu, isso vadai and soft drinks. Since the procession runs into the night before a poya, some vendors close early and alcohol is not served on the poya day. Eating in Colombo before you set out is the simpler plan.

Processions usually wrap up late in the evening, and the roads stay blocked for a while afterwards as the crowd disperses. Walking a few hundred metres away from the temple before looking for a tuk-tuk is quicker than waiting at the gate. Ride-hailing apps work, but expect surge prices on the final night.

Kelaniya sits between the airport and central Colombo, so it works well on an arrival or departure evening. By day, the markets and old trading streets of the Pettah are a short ride away, and the west-coast beaches are in their dry season in January.

Children usually love the elephants and drumming, but the evenings are long and the final night is very crowded. Bring a mat for sitting, snacks and water, and keep small children well back from the fire-ball performers. The first or second night is the easier choice with a family.

The crowd is generally good-natured, but the final night is tightly packed and pickpocketing does happen. Carry only what you need in a front pocket or zipped bag, agree a meeting point with your group, and keep your distance from the fire performers and whip crackers.