Yasothon

Two days in Yasothon from Wat Maha That to Ban Si Than

Two days in Yasothon cover the town and its craft villages. Day one is for Wat Maha That and its brick chedi, Phra That Anon, then Phaya Thaen Park and the market streets; day two for the pillow makers of Ban Si Than, the church at Ban Songyae and the sand chedi at Ban Plab.

Day one, morning. Start at Wat Maha That, the town's old temple, while it is still cool. Walk round Phra That Anon, the brick chedi said to enshrine relics of Phra Ananda, and look at the raised scripture library (Hor Trai) beside it.

Afternoon. Head to Phaya Thaen Park, where a stream loops around lawns and a naga-decorated building. Outside May it is a local family park; in May it is the rocket ground. Late in the day, wander the market streets and stop for coffee at Miss Aree on Prachasampan Road, a daytime cafe that closes in the late afternoon.

Day two. Take a car north-east to Ban Si Than, the pillow village, and watch the triangular mon khwan being stitched. Continue to Ban Songyae for the Church of the Archangel Michael, then swing past Ban Plab to see Chedi Sai, a cone of sand about 20 m high that villagers say has been topped up for four centuries. Back in town, dinner is at the night market stalls.

Organic jasmine rice, som tam and Chi River fish

Yasothon eats Isan food built on rice, and its organic jasmine rice is a point of local pride. Most meals still come with sticky rice, alongside som tam, larb and grilled chicken, plus fish from the Chi River. The evening market and street stalls in the centre are where the town eats.

Food here is straight Isan cooking built on rice, and Yasothon jasmine rice is a point of local pride, with much of it grown organically by farmer groups around the province. In practice most meals still come with khao niao, sticky rice in a woven basket, rolled into balls and dipped by hand.

The essentials are som tam (pounded green papaya salad, often with salty pla ra, fermented fish), larb of minced meat with toasted rice and mint, and gai yang, grilled chicken. River fish from the Chi turns up grilled with salt crusts or in sour soups. Preserved sour fish and rice noodles are local market staples.

Eat at the evening market and street stalls in the centre; that is where the town eats. Ask for mai phet if you want the chilli dialled down, though Isan cooks rarely take it far.

Bun Bang Fai rockets in May and the Makha Bucha garland parade

Yasothon's Rocket Festival, Bun Bang Fai, is held in May, usually on the second weekend, with a parade on Saturday and launches at Phaya Thaen Park on Sunday. Villagers also parade popped-rice garlands on Makha Bucha Day in February or March, and November to February is the comfortable season for touring.

The Rocket Festival (Bun Bang Fai) is the reason most outsiders come. It falls in May, usually on the second weekend, just before the planting rains. Saturday brings a parade of decorated rockets and dancers down the main street; Sunday is launch day at Phaya Thaen Park, with teams firing home-built rockets and judges scoring how long each one stays aloft. Teams whose rockets fizzle go into the mud.

A quieter tradition comes earlier in the year. On Makha Bucha Day (February or March) Yasothon villagers parade long garlands made from popped rice decorated with flowers and beads. Songkran in April is celebrated in the park too.

For touring, the dry months from November to February are the comfortable choice. If you are travelling the north-east loop, Yasothon pairs naturally with Roi Et and Ubon Ratchathani, and the rocket festival weekend also suits a stop in Khon Kaen on the way back to Bangkok.