Ko Samet

Northern beaches, snorkel reefs and southern coves in three days

Three days suits Ko Samet. Spend the first afternoon on the northern beaches from Hat Sai Kaew to Ao Phai, the second morning on a speedboat snorkel trip and the evening at Ao Prao for sunset, and the last day in the quiet southern coves of Ao Thian and Ao Wai.

Arrive on a morning boat so you have the pick of rooms; if you are flying in, U-Tapao airport, about 50 km west of Ban Phe, takes flights from Phuket and Koh Samui. Walk south from Hat Sai Kaew past the mermaid statue to Ao Hin Khok and Ao Phai, swim where the jet skis are fewest, and stay on the sand after dark for the fire twirlers, who work the beach between about six and half past ten.

On day two, be up for sunrise, which the east-facing bays catch head on. After breakfast, join a speedboat trip to snorkel the reefs around Samet's smaller neighbours. In the evening, take a songthaew or scooter to Ao Prao on the west coast for sunset, or ride to the cliffs along the south-west shore.

Give the last day to the south. Scooter or songthaew down past Ao Wong Deuan to the small coves of Ao Thian and Ao Wai, where a handful of bungalows share each bay and the water is calmer. Pack a picnic or eat at a bungalow kitchen, and allow plenty of time for the bumpy ride back to Na Dan and the boat to Ban Phe.

Seafood barbecues on the sand at Ao Phai and Hat Sai Kaew

Seafood barbecues on the sand are the main way to eat on Ko Samet. After dark, restaurants on every beach lay out prawns, squid, crab and whole fish on ice, sold by weight and grilled to order, with the most choice at Ao Phai and Hat Sai Kaew. Ask the price per weight before choosing.

Restaurants drag tables and cushions onto the sand, light candles, and set out ice beds of the evening's catch: prawns, squid, crab, whole fish and shellfish. Every beach has at least one barbecue.

Do not judge by crowds. Day-trip companies strike deals with particular restaurants and march their groups in, so a full house says little about the cooking. Look at how fresh the display is, ask for the price per weight before choosing, and walk a few doors along if you are unsure.

By day you barely need to move. Hawkers walk the sand with fresh fruit, grilled chicken wings, dried squid and som tam (papaya salad, which can be fiercely hot; ask for it mild). Ice cream sellers do the rounds too, at a small markup for the convenience. Most bungalow operations run their own kitchens with Thai curries and fried rice, plus the usual pizzas and burgers.

Ko Samet's beaches, from busy Hat Sai Kaew to quiet Ao Wai

Ko Samet's beaches get quieter the further south you go. Hat Sai Kaew by Na Dan pier is the busiest, Ao Hin Khok and Ao Phai suit backpackers, Ao Phutsa and Ao Thapthim are calmer, and Ao Thian and Ao Wai have a few bungalows each. Ao Prao on the west coast faces the sunset.

Hat Sai Kaew, near Na Dan pier, is a kilometre of fine sand and the busiest strip on the island, with jet skis, banana boats and rows of deckchairs. Come here for convenience, and expect loud weekends. Ao Hin Khok and Ao Phai, just south, are where backpackers go for cheap bungalows, bars handing out drink-special flyers and fire shows.

Quieter options start at Ao Phutsa and Ao Thapthim, small bays with mid-range bungalows a few minutes' walk from the action. Further down, Ao Wong Deuan is a lively crescent with its own pier, handy for speedboats from Ban Phe. After that the bays shrink to coves such as Ao Thian and Ao Wai with a few bungalows each, the best choice for couples who want silence and do not mind the ride.

If sunsets matter more, stay at Ao Prao, the main beach on the west coast, where resorts are fewer and more expensive. Whatever you choose, book ahead from November to February and June to August, the island's two busy seasons, and avoid Thai public holiday weekends.