Pekanbaru

A riverside weekend in Pekanbaru from Pasar Bawah to the library

Spend a Pekanbaru weekend by the Siak river. Begin with coffee and kaya toast at Kim Teng in Senapelan, walk through Pasar Bawah, the old market of dried goods once shipped upriver from Singapore, see the 18th-century Masjid Raya Pekanbaru, and visit the striking Soeman HS Library on Jalan Sudirman.

Walk off breakfast through Pasar Bawah, the old market where traders sell dried goods and imported snacks that once came upriver from Singapore and Malaysia. Nearby, the Masjid Raya Pekanbaru dates to the Siak Sultanate in the 18th century; it was heavily rebuilt in 2009 and only a few original pillars survive, but it marks where the city began. Before the heat peaks, wander down Jalan Karet and Jalan Leimena in the little Chinatown.

In the afternoon, move south to Jalan Sudirman. The Sang Nila Utama Museum covers Riau Malay culture and history, and close by stand the Idrus Tintin arts hall, which hosts Quran recitation contests and film festivals, and the vast Soeman HS Library. Both are best seen from outside in the softer light after 4pm.

On the second day, look at the city's religious mix around Masjid An-Nur, the largest mosque in town, which faces the great HKBP church across the road. Spend the evening at the durian stalls on Sudirman, or dinner in one of the Sundanese restaurants along the same road.

Gulai patin, kopitiam mornings and the Sudirman durian stalls

Riau's signature dish is gulai ikan patin, river catfish in a yellow coconut curry with turmeric and tamarind, often made with smoky ikan salai; order it at lunch in a Malay rumah makan. Mornings start at kopitiam such as Kim Teng, and in season durian stalls line Jalan Sudirman at night.

Gulai patin is often made with ikan salai, smoked patin, which gives the sauce a deep, campfire flavour. Malay rumah makan serve it with rice and plates of greens; order it at lunch, when the pots are fresh.

Mornings belong to the kopitiam. Kim Teng on Jalan Senapelan is the old favourite, Seleraku on Jalan Teuku Umar is known locally for Nyonya dishes, and Gundaling on Jalan Juanda turns out local takes on Chinese noodles and rice. Expect strong, sweet coffee and a crowd of retirees reading the paper.

For sweets, look for bolu kemojo, a dense green pandan cake baked in a flower-shaped mould and sold in bakeries all over town. In the evening, the stalls along Jalan Sudirman sell durian by the fruit, cracked open for you to eat on the spot.

Chinese seafood is the other strength. Restoran Taman Anggrek on Jalan Tuanku Tambusai is worth tracking down for its chilli garlic crab, and Sundanese chains like Koki Sunda and Bumbu Desa on Sudirman are reliable when you want grilled chicken and sambal.

Siak Sri Indrapura palace and the Bono tidal bore

The best day out from Pekanbaru is Siak Sri Indrapura, the old royal town about two to three hours away by road, with the 1880s Asserayah Hasyimiah palace mixing Malay, Moorish and European styles. Further afield, the Bono, a tidal bore on the Kampar river, draws surfers at certain spring tides.

The best day out is Siak Sri Indrapura, the old royal town of the Siak Sultanate, roughly two to three hours downriver by road. The Asserayah Hasyimiah palace, built in the 1880s, mixes Malay, Moorish and European styles and still holds royal furniture and a large antique music box. Combine it with the riverside promenade and the grave of Sultan Syarif Kasim II, the ruler who gave his name to Pekanbaru's airport. Hire a car and driver, leave by 7am and you can be back for dinner.

The more adventurous trip is to the Bono, a tidal bore that rolls up the Kampar River near Teluk Meranti in Pelalawan regency. The wave can run for kilometres and has made the river a niche spot for surfers from around the world. It is biggest around the full and new moons in the wetter months, so speak to a local operator before you go, as access needs a long drive and a boat.

Closer to the city, Labersa has a water park for children, and the Rumbai district north of the river still holds the leafy former oil company camp.