Delft

Royal tombs in the Nieuwe Kerk, then a canal walk to the Oostpoort

One day covers Delft. Walk from the station along the Oude Delft, the town's oldest canal, to the Markt, and visit the Nieuwe Kerk for the marble tomb of William of Orange before climbing its tower. The same ticket covers the leaning Oude Kerk, and the day ends with a loop along Wijnhaven to the Oostpoort.

Visit the Nieuwe Kerk first and see the marble tomb of William of Orange, guarded by a bronze figure of Fame, then climb the tower before the queue builds. The steps are steep and narrow near the top, but on a clear day the view takes in Rotterdam, The Hague and sometimes Leiden. Back on the square, look at Hendrick de Keyser's town hall, built around a surviving medieval tower, and the statue of Hugo Grotius, the lawyer who escaped prison hidden in a book chest.

Cross towards the Oude Kerk, which the same ticket covers; its brick tower leans well out of true over the canal, and Vermeer lies under a simple stone inside. Opposite, Museum Prinsenhof shows the staircase where William of Orange was shot in 1584, with the bullet holes still in the wall. Have lunch on the Beestenmarkt, then walk or cycle out to Royal Delft to watch the painters at work and see how the blue is fired.

Finish with a slow loop along Wijnhaven and the Hippolytusbuurt, out to the Oostpoort, the twin-towered gate reflected in the water at the east end of town. As the day-trippers leave, take a drink on one of the terrace barges moored along the canals.

Kobus Kuch appeltaart, terrace barges and the Thursday market

Delft's food is café food done well, and prices drop a street or two off the Markt. The local favourite is Kobus Kuch on the Beestenmarkt, known for its homemade appeltaart, and in summer the Beestenmarkt and the Brabantse Turfmarkt fill with terraces. The Thursday market brings stalls to the Markt.

The square itself is lined with terraces facing the Nieuwe Kerk, fine for a coffee and the view, but the better lunches are in the lanes behind.

The local favourite is Kobus Kuch on the Beestenmarkt, best known for its homemade appeltaart, a deep apple pie with cinnamon, served with a mound of whipped cream; if staff have time, they will even bake a whole one for you to take away. Lunchroom Leonidas on Choorstraat, named after the Belgian chocolates it sells, does sandwiches and a long list of teas, with a quiet courtyard behind in summer. For dessert, Chocolaterie De Lelie on the Voorstraat makes its own chocolates and ice cream; try the dark chocolate.

In summer the Beestenmarkt, a tree-shaded square, and the Brabantse Turfmarkt fill with terraces, and several canal-side bars set out terrace barges on the water in front. Delft was once a major brewing town, and its bars now pour a good range of Dutch craft beers. The Thursday market on the Markt sells cheese, fish and stroopwafels, and stalls fry kibbeling for a quick lunch. Seats are scarce on warm evenings, so arrive early or book.

Train times from The Hague and Rotterdam, or staying in Delft

Delft fits easily into a stay in The Hague or Rotterdam. Trains take about 15 minutes from Rotterdam Centraal, about 10 from Den Haag HS and 15 to 20 from Den Haag Centraal, several times an hour. The reverse works too, because Delft's small hotels make a quiet base for the region.

Trains run several times an hour, so there is no need to plan around a timetable. The slower, more scenic choice is tram 1, which starts at Scheveningen on the coast, runs through the middle of The Hague past the Peace Palace and continues to Delft. It takes about 30 minutes from the centre of The Hague and about 45 from the beach.

Its hotels are small and often in old canal houses, the evenings are calm once the tour groups leave, and The Hague's museums, Rotterdam's architecture and the beach at Scheveningen are all within half an hour. If you fly into Rotterdam The Hague Airport, there is no direct public transport: take bus 33 to Rotterdam Centraal and the train back up, about 45 minutes in all, or book a taxi.

Within Delft itself, keep a few hours for the edges. The Delftse Hout, a park east of town, has woods, a lake for sailing and swimming and picnic lawns, an easy bike ride from the centre. In the south, near Delft Campus station, stands the Kruithuis, the powder house built outside the walls after the explosion of 1654 destroyed much of the town.