Zandvoort

Catching the 29-minute train early for a Zandvoort beach day

Zandvoort is Amsterdam's beach, about 29 minutes by direct train from Amsterdam Centraal. On a warm day, travel before 10:00, when carriages are emptier, walk under ten minutes from Zandvoort aan Zee station to the sand, and pick a beach pavilion to anchor the day, with a terrace for lunch and a sunset drink.

Pick a pavilion to anchor the day: the ones along Boulevard Barnaart lie north of the centre, while Havana aan Zee sits at the far end of the southern Paulus Loot boulevard and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner in season. Swim near the lifeguard posts; the North Sea stays cool even in August, so most dips are short. If the sun goes in, rent a bike at Zilt at Sea and ride into Zuid-Kennemerland. Head back before the evening rush, or stay for dinner by the sea and take a later train when the platforms are calmer.

Dunes, deer and bikes around Zandvoort

Two dune reserves border Zandvoort. Zuid-Kennemerland National Park, between the town and Haarlem, has marked paths through sand hills, dune lakes and pine woods grazed by konik horses and Highland cattle, and the Amsterdamse Waterleidingduinen to the south have fallow deer. Zilt at Sea, near the beach, rents bikes and e-bikes.

Konik horses and Scottish Highland cattle graze parts of it to keep the dunes open, and a small herd of European bison lives in a fenced area called the Kraansvlak. To the south, the Amsterdamse Waterleidingduinen catch and filter water for Amsterdam and hold a large herd of fallow deer, easiest to spot early in the morning or towards dusk.

Zilt at Sea, a few steps from the beach, rents ordinary bikes, e-bikes, tandems and children's bikes, and has lockers and showers for after the beach. Bike lanes also link Zandvoort with the other resorts along the coast, so a ride by the shore combines easily with the dunes. Bring a layer even in summer: inland from the first dune ridge the air is warm and still, but the coast path catches every gust.

Beach pavilions on the sand and paper cones of kibbeling

Meals in Zandvoort revolve around the beach pavilions, wooden restaurants on the sand with terraces facing the water, from family places serving fries and pancakes to cocktail bars with summer music. In town, look for Dutch seaside staples such as kibbeling, battered chunks of fish served hot with a dipping sauce.

Along Boulevard Barnaart, north of the centre, Ahoi, Thalassa and Venti are popular for a drink as the sun sets over the sea. At the southern end of the Paulus Loot boulevard, Havana aan Zee has a proper kitchen: sandwiches, pizzas and salads at lunch, a changing dinner menu with plenty of fish, and window tables worth asking for on cold days.

Dutch seaside staples are easy to find in town, above all kibbeling, battered chunks of white fish with a garlic sauce, and raw herring with chopped onion when the new catch arrives in early summer. Away from the sand, Zizo Sushi Lounge on the Burgemeester van Fenemaplein serves sushi, sashimi and cocktails. Outside summer some pavilions cut their hours, so check before walking out on a November afternoon.