Ensenada

Mercado Negro mornings, La Bufadora and a vineyard afternoon

Start Ensenada at the Mercado Negro by the harbour as the boats unload, with fish tacos from the nearby stalls for breakfast, as locals do. Then stroll the malecón along Boulevard Costero, past the fishing fleet, to the Riviera del Pacífico, whose painted halls, tiled courtyards and gardens date from the casino years.

The old bar inside is a good place for a coffee.

Day one, afternoon. Look into the Museo Histórico Regional, set in a former prison, for the story of Baja's cave-dwelling peoples and missions, then check the Caracol science museum by the water if you have children with you. Late in the day, settle into Hussong's Cantina on Avenida Ruiz.

Day one, evening. Eat a seafood dinner on Calle Primera and walk the bars along Avenida Ruiz.

Day two, morning. Drive about 30 km southwest across the Punta Banda peninsula to La Bufadora, one of the largest marine blowholes in North America, where waves force water up through a sea cave and into the air. Go near high tide for the biggest bursts.

Day two, afternoon. Head inland to the Valle de Guadalupe for two or three tastings and a long lunch at a vineyard restaurant. Book ahead on weekends and arrange a driver.

Day three. Join a surf lesson at San Miguel, take a boat into the bay, or in winter book a grey whale trip.

Battered fish tacos, sea urchin tostadas and Calle Primera ceviche

Ensenada's own taco de pescado is strips of white fish in a light beer batter, fried to order and folded into a warm corn tortilla, then dressed from bowls of cabbage, crema or thinned mayonnaise, pico de gallo and salsas. Stands near the fish market and port open in the morning and often sell out by mid-afternoon.

Tostadas are the other staple. Carts on Calle Primera pile crisp tortillas with fish or shrimp ceviche, octopus, clams or erizo, the creamy local sea urchin. The best known, La Guerrerense, has been serving them for decades and draws long lines. Fresh almejas and oysters from the bays to the south appear on the half shell with lime and hot sauce.

The wine country brings a different style. Chefs in the city and the valley cook what is called Baja Med, mixing Mexican flavours with olive oil, local cheese, garden produce and Mediterranean technique, and the menus change with the season. Pair it with a Nebbiolo or a Tempranillo from the Guadalupe hills.

On the drive down from Tijuana, the village of Puerto Nuevo serves lobster fried in lard with beans, rice and flour tortillas, a tradition worth the stop.

Finish at Hussong's, where locals say the margarita was invented, though plenty of other bars claim the same.

Vendimia in August, grey whales in winter and the Baja 1000

Ensenada's climate is Mediterranean, which surprises many visitors. May to October is dry, with highs of 23 to 27 C and nights of 13 to 18 C, though sea fog often fills the bay on May and June mornings; winters are cool and damp, with 40 to 60 mm of rain a month from December to March.

The calendar is busy year-round. Carnaval comes before Lent in February or March with parades along the waterfront, among the biggest pre-Lent celebrations in Baja. In spring and autumn, thousands of riders pedal the Rosarito-Ensenada bike ride down the coast road and finish here in a street party.

August belongs to the wine country. The Fiestas de la Vendimia celebrate the grape harvest with tastings, dinners and concerts across the Valle de Guadalupe wineries, and the valley's roads and rooms fill up. It is also the warmest month.

From December to March, grey whales migrate south past the bay toward their calving lagoons further down the peninsula, and boats go out from the harbour to see them.

Off-road fans know Ensenada as the traditional home of the Baja 1000, the November desert race, with smaller events such as the Baja 500 earlier in the year. The course changes every year: the 2026 race runs entirely in Baja California Sur, and the 2027 edition is scheduled to start from Ensenada again. Race weeks fill hotels and the streets with trucks and buggies.