Querétaro

Maximilian, the Corregidora and the aqueduct over a long weekend

Spend the first day in Querétaro on the independence story. At the Casa de la Corregidora on the Plaza de Armas, Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez sent her 1810 warning to the conspirators; nearby, the Teatro de la República saw Maximilian's trial and the 1917 Constitution, and Santa Clara and Santa Rosa de Viterbo are baroque churches covered in gold.

Eat gorditas at the plaza stalls in the evening and catch the Leyendas tour.

Day two climbs the Cerro del Sangremal to the Templo y Convento de la Santa Cruz, where Maximilian was held before his execution and where a cross of pink stone sits in the garden. Continue to the mirador on the Calzada de los Arcos for the full sweep of the aqueduct, built in the 18th century. After lunch, take a taxi west to the Cerro de las Campanas, where the emperor was shot in 1867; a chapel built by Austria marks the spot. Book the Corral de Comedias for the evening.

Day three heads out. Drive or take a tour to Peña de Bernal, a vast rock looming over a village of sweet shops and gorditas stands, then stop at vineyards and cheese makers around Ezequiel Montes and Tequisquiapan on the way back.

Gorditas queretanas, enchiladas and Bajío wine and cheese

Querétaro's signature is the gordita queretana, larger and rounder than gorditas elsewhere, its masa pocket split and stuffed with stewed meat, cheese or both. Try it at the food stalls on the plaza in front of the Santa Cruz church, open every afternoon and evening, where one stall sells gorditas from Friday to Sunday.

Enchiladas queretanas, tortillas dipped in a red guajillo sauce and topped with potato and carrot, cheese and cream, are another regional dish worth ordering in the cafés around the Jardín Zenea. For cheap everyday eating, the stretch of Calle Corregidora near the Hotel San Francisco is full of fondas and snack counters.

Wine is the newer story. The state ranks second in Mexican wine production after Baja California, with vineyards around Ezequiel Montes, Colón and Tequisquiapan and a well-signposted route that pairs cellar visits with dairy farms making fresh and aged cheeses. Many central restaurants and wine bars now list Querétaro bottles, especially sparkling wines, so ask for something local.

At night, the bars and mezcalerías of the centre cluster around the andadores near the Jardín Zenea, while the big clubs for dancing until late are out in Juriquilla.

Holy Week silence, Hay Festival September and the Bajío rains

October to April is Querétaro's dry season, with highs from 23C in January to 30C in April and only a few millimetres of rain a month; at about 1,800 m, the city stays gentler than its latitude suggests. Winter nights fall to around 7-8C and many older hotels have no heating, so pack a warm layer.

May is the hottest month, at about 31C. The rains arrive in June and peak in July at about 131 mm, mostly as afternoon thunderstorms that clear by evening. Daytime highs actually drop in the wet season to 26-27C, and the hills around the city turn green.

The biggest religious event is Holy Week. On Good Friday the Procesión del Silencio moves slowly through the historic streets, with hooded members of the brotherhoods walking without a word; it draws large crowds, so arrive early for a spot along the route. In early September the Hay Festival Querétaro brings writers, talks and concerts to venues around the centre, and the Teatro de la República hosts the state philharmonic through much of the year.

For quieter streets and better hotel availability, avoid Mexican long weekends and the Christmas and Easter school holidays, when visitors from Mexico City fill the plazas.