Malaysia

Deciding whether a Malaysia route takes in Borneo

Malaysia comes in two parts, the peninsula and Malaysian Borneo, reachable only by air, so decide early whether Borneo is in. A week covers Kuala Lumpur, the Cameron Highlands and George Town. Ten days to two weeks adds Melaka and an island, and three weeks adds Sabah or Sarawak for Kinabalu, Sepilok or Gunung Mulu.

• A week on the west coast: two or three days in Kuala Lumpur for the Petronas Towers, the Batu Caves and the food streets. Next comes the train north to Ipoh, with a bus up into the Cameron Highlands for cool nights among the tea estates. Finish with three days of eating in George Town on Penang.
• Ten days to two weeks: add Melaka's colonial old town on the way south, plus an island.
• Three weeks with Borneo: fly to Kota Kinabalu for Mount Kinabalu, the orangutans at Sepilok and the reefs off Semporna, which include Sipadan. Alternatively take Sarawak: Kuching for proboscis monkeys at Bako, then a flight to Miri for the giant caves of Gunung Mulu.

Most of the peninsula needs little advance booking outside holidays. Seats on ETS trains can be reserved up to 6 months ahead; do so for weekends and festival periods, when long-distance buses also need booking. Reserve a berth early if you want the night train on the east coast line. Hotel prices in Malaysia often exclude service charges, taxes and a per-night tourism tax; compare total prices, not headline rates. Divers heading out in season should sort out island accommodation before arriving.

To cross between Peninsular Malaysia and Borneo, book flights early to catch the promotional fares.

East-coast islands, the monsoon and festival travel

The Perhentians, Redang and Tioman work from March to October, since the east-coast monsoon closes most places from November to February. Book transport early for major festivals.

From November to February the monsoon drives heavy rain onto the east coast of the peninsula; most places to stay on the Perhentian Islands close. March to October is also the diving season. Kuala Lumpur itself gets a soaking for much of the year: about 356 mm of rain falls in November, its wettest month, against about 146 mm in June, the driest.

For relief from the humidity, head uphill. The Cameron Highlands average about 18°C over the year, rarely pass 25°C by day and can drop to 12°C at night, so bring a fleece.

Chinese New Year falls in the drier west-coast season and is a lively time in Penang and Kuala Lumpur. Hari Raya (dates expected in advance but set by moon sighting) marks the end of Ramadan, the biggest Muslim holiday, and Deepavali is celebrated by the Indian community. In Sarawak, the Gawai Dayak harvest festival is the time to try rice wine. During Ramadan some services, including certain ferries, run less often.

Hawker stalls, nasi lemak, Penang char kway teow

Malaysian food mixes Malay, Chinese and Indian cooking, and the best cheap meals come from hawker stalls and kopitiam coffee shops. Nasi lemak is on almost every counter, Penang is known for char kway teow and Kajang for satay. Order teh tarik, eat with your right hand, and take shoes off in homes and temples.

Indian Muslims run the mamak stalls, which open late to serve flaky roti canai with curry. Nasi lemak is rice cooked in coconut milk, with sambal.

Ipoh serves bean sprout chicken. Kelantan does nasi dagang; Sabah makes hinava, a raw fish salad. Laksa in Penang and laksa in Sarawak share a name and little else. Look for Nyonya cooking (the Peranakan blend of Chinese with Malay food), and in Melaka's Portuguese Settlement for Eurasian dishes. To take food away, say bungkus.

Teh tarik is poured from a height with a showy pulling action. Learn the variations: teh o without milk, teh ais iced, kurang manis for less sugar. BOH tea from the Cameron Highlands is worth buying. Alcohol is sold to non-Muslims in licensed places and costs much less on the duty-free islands of Langkawi, Labuan and Tioman. At street stalls skip the ice and ask for bottled water.

With chopsticks, never leave them standing upright in rice. Point with your thumb; pointing with a finger is rude. Never touch anyone's head. At mosques women must cover their hair (robes are provided). Dress more conservatively in the countryside, especially in Kelantan and Terengganu. Durians are banned in almost every hotel. Makan means eat, and you will hear it often.