Meissen

Meissen's porcelain manufactory and cathedral hill in one day

One day covers Meissen. Arrive by S-Bahn S1 at Meißen-Altstadt, start at the porcelain manufactory's demonstration workshops and museum, lunch on the Markt within earshot of the Frauenkirche's porcelain bells, then climb to the Burgberg for the Albrechtsburg and the cathedral, and return by Elbe steamer.

Morning. Arrive by S1 at Meißen-Altstadt and walk along the Triebisch to the porcelain manufactory. Start in the demonstration workshops, where throwers, modellers and painters show each stage of a piece, then take your time in the museum upstairs, which runs from early Böttger stoneware to huge baroque table centrepieces. The factory shop sells seconds, and the cafe serves coffee in Meissen cups.

Midday. Walk back into town for lunch on the Markt. Listen for the carillon of the Frauenkirche, whose bells are made of porcelain, and look into the courtyards off Burgstraße.

Afternoon. Climb the stairways to the Burgberg. The Albrechtsburg tells the story of the Wettin rulers and of Böttger's experiments, which began in rooms of this very castle. Next door, Meissen Cathedral is one of the purest Gothic churches in Germany, with 13th-century statues of Emperor Otto I and his wife Adelheid in the choir. Climb its tower in season for a view along the Elbe.

Evening. Walk down for a glass at Vincenz Richter, a wine house beside the Frauenkirche since the 1870s, then cross the bridge for the floodlit view from the east bank.

With a second day, ride the steamer from Dresden in the morning, or cycle the Elbe path to Radebeul, stopping at the vineyard estates of Schloss Proschwitz on the way.

Meißner Fummel, Saxon Sauerbraten and Elbe valley wine

Meissen's oddest local product is the Meißner Fummel, a fragile bubble of baked dough. For a real meal, order Saxon Sauerbraten with red cabbage and dumplings or Quarkkäulchen with apple sauce, have Eierschecke cake in a cafe, and drink Saxon white wine from the vineyards along the Elbe.

Meissen's strangest local product is the Meißner Fummel, a huge, almost weightless bubble of baked dough that tastes of very little. The story says it was invented for the porcelain couriers: a coachman who arrived with the Fummel broken was assumed to have driven too fast. Bakeries in the old town still make it, and guided tours often hand round a piece.

For something you will actually want to finish, look for Saxon staples. Sauerbraten, beef marinated for days and braised in a sweet-sour gravy, comes with red cabbage and dumplings. Quarkkäulchen, fried curd-cheese patties with apple sauce, are a lighter lunch. In the cafes, Eierschecke, a layered cake of yeast dough, curd cheese and custard, is the regional favourite with coffee.

Wine is the bigger story. Meissen sits in the easternmost wine area in Germany, and its whites are generally dry and crisp: Müller-Thurgau, Riesling and Weißburgunder lead, with reds far less common. Vincenz Richter, near the Frauenkirche, has served local wine and Saxon dishes since the 1870s; the Meißner Groschen on Rosengasse, by the old Tuchmachertor, is a cosy alternative. Across the river, the Schloss Proschwitz estate runs tastings at its vineyards.

In late summer, small seasonal taverns open in the vineyards themselves, serving their own wine with simple plates. They follow the harvest calendar, so ask at the tourist information on the Markt which are pouring that week.

Moritzburg, Radebeul and the Elbe cycle path near Meissen

Most day trips from Meissen take under half an hour. Moritzburg is a baroque hunting lodge on an island, built for Augustus the Strong. Radebeul, on the S1 towards Dresden, has the Saxon wine route, the Hoflößnitz wine museum and the Karl May Museum, and the Elbe cycle path follows the river in both directions.

Meissen's position between Dresden and the Saxon countryside makes it a good base for short trips, most of them under half an hour away.

Moritzburg, a short drive east of town, is a baroque hunting lodge on an artificial island, built for Augustus the Strong and painted ochre and white. Its lakes, a pheasant palace and the surrounding forest fill a relaxed half day. Buses and a car make it easiest; from Radebeul, a narrow-gauge steam railway runs out to the castle.

Radebeul, on the S1 back toward Dresden, is the heart of the Saxon wine route. The Hoflößnitz estate has a wine museum, the steep terraces around the Spitzhaus give long river views, and the Karl May Museum honours the author of the Winnetou westerns, much loved in Germany.

Dresden itself is only 36 minutes away, and an Elbe steamer ride between the two is a classic summer outing.

Cyclists have the best of it. The Elbe cycle path follows the river on both banks, almost flat, and passes vineyards, small ferries and riverside beer gardens. Ride upstream from Meissen to Radebeul and Dresden, then put the bike on the S-Bahn home. Downstream, the path continues through quieter farmland toward Riesa and Torgau.