Ahrweiler District

Ahrweiler gates, Walporzheim slopes and a morning at the Nordschleife

Three days cover the Ahrweiler District. Spend the first in walled Ahrweiler, the government bunker documentation site and the Bad Neuenahr spa park, the second walking the Rotweinwanderweg downhill from Altenahr with tastings, and the third at the Nürburgring circuit and Nordschleife or along the Rhine at Remagen and Bonn.

Day one, Ahrweiler and Bad Neuenahr. Start inside Ahrweiler's walls: walk the circuit of the ramparts, pass through the Ahrtor and Niedertor, and look into St. Laurentius on the market square. Late morning, head out to the government bunker documentation site on the edge of town, where a short section of the huge Cold War tunnel system has been kept as it was. In the afternoon, cross to Bad Neuenahr for the spa park and a soak, and eat in an Ahrweiler wine tavern.

Day two, the wine trail. Take the train up to Altenahr and walk the Rotweinwanderweg back down through Mayschoß and Rech to Dernau or Walporzheim, a long but mostly downhill day with tastings along the way. Mayschoß has one of the oldest winegrowers' cooperatives in Germany. Catch the train back from whichever station your legs reach.

Day three, the hills or the Rhine. Drive up to the Nürburgring, visit the circuit museum and watch the Nordschleife, or join a public lap on the days it opens to drivers. Without a car, go the other way to Remagen for the bridge towers and the Rhine promenade, and on to Bonn for the evening.

Ahr Spätburgunder, Straußwirtschaften and Eifel cooking

The Ahr valley is red wine country. Taste Spätburgunder and the local Frühburgunder at the cooperatives in Mayschoß and Dernau, where buying bottles supports the post-2021 recovery, and eat at seasonal Straußwirtschaften. Expect Reibekuchen, Döppekuchen, Eifel game in autumn and Flammkuchen, with Ahrweiler's old town holding the most wine taverns.

The Ahr is red wine country. Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) dominates the slate slopes, with Frühburgunder, an early-ripening relative, as the local speciality. Cooperatives in Mayschoß and Dernau and family estates along the valley run tasting rooms, and many rebuilt their cellars after 2021, so buying a bottle here directly supports the recovery.

In season, look for Straußwirtschaften, seasonal taverns run by winegrowers who serve their own wine with simple plates. Typical food is hearty Rhineland and Eifel fare: Reibekuchen (potato fritters), Döppekuchen, a baked potato cake, game from the Eifel forests in autumn and Flammkuchen at almost every wine bar.

Ahrweiler's old town has the densest run of wine taverns, and Bad Neuenahr's spa quarter leans towards cafés and cake. Near the Nürburgring, food is mostly pub grub and grills aimed at race crowds.

Rock am Ring weekend and the Ahr wine festival calendar

The district's year peaks twice. In early June, Rock am Ring brings tens of thousands of fans to the Nürburgring, and racing, including the 24-hour race on the Nordschleife, fills other summer weekends. From late August to October the wine villages hold weekend festivals, and September to early October is best for hiking.

The district's year has two peaks. In early June, Rock am Ring brings tens of thousands of fans to the Nürburgring for one of Germany's biggest rock festivals; camping at the circuit is the norm, and roads around Nürburg and Adenau slow to a crawl. Motor racing fills other weekends through the summer, including the 24-hour race on the Nordschleife.

Autumn belongs to the valley. From late August to October the wine villages hold weekend festivals, and harvest workers fill the terraces. Hikers prefer September and early October, when the vines turn gold and the heat has gone. Spring arrives earlier on the sheltered slate slopes than in the surrounding Eifel.

For a day trip, follow the Rhine south to Koblenz where it meets the Moselle, or go further to Cochem for its castle. Cologne is an easy day away by train.