Como

Duomo, Sant'Abbondio and sunset at the Faro Voltiano

One day in Como covers the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, the striped Broletto, Terragni's Casa del Fascio and the Romanesque basilica of Sant'Abbondio, then a lakefront walk to Villa Olmo. In the late afternoon, ride the funicular to Brunate and walk about 35 minutes uphill to the Faro Voltiano lighthouse for sunset.

Start at the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, going in by the tourist entrance on the north side, and look for the statues of the two Plinys beside the main door. Next door, the striped Broletto was the medieval town hall. Walk round behind the cathedral to see Terragni's Casa del Fascio, a white modernist block.

Wander the old town's grid south-west to Sant'Abbondio, an 11th-century Romanesque basilica with frescoes in its apse. After lunch, follow the lakefront west past the Tempio Voltiano, with Volta's instruments, to the gardens of Villa Olmo.

Late in the afternoon, ride the funicular to Brunate and walk on, about 35 minutes uphill, to the Faro Voltiano at San Maurizio. Climb the lighthouse for sunset over the lake. Back down, eat lake fish near Piazza Cavour and finish with a stroll east along the shore towards Villa Geno.

Missoltini, perch risotto and lakeside polenta

Como's cooking comes from lake fishing and Alpine pastures. Order risotto with perch fried in butter, lavarello marinated in carpione, or missoltini, sun-dried shad grilled and served with polenta. Lakeside restaurants have the views, while the old town's narrow streets have lower prices and a more local crowd.

Como's cooking grew from two sources, lake fishing and Alpine pastures, and menus still reflect both. Freshwater fish leads: risotto with perch fillets fried in butter, lavarello (whitefish) marinated in carpione, small fried bleak and, above all, missoltini, shad salted and dried in the sun, then grilled and served with polenta.

Polenta has a central place on the table, with meat dishes of pork, beef, rabbit or venison in the colder months.

Lakeside restaurants along the shore have the views; for lower prices and a more local crowd, look in the narrow streets of the old town, where small bars hide away from the waterfront. In many bars you pay at the till first and then order at the counter with your receipt. Gelato stands along the lakefront promenade are part of any evening walk.

Ferries to Bellagio and Cernobbio from Piazza Cavour

The easiest way to explore Lake Como from Como is by ferry from the pier by Piazza Cavour to Cernobbio, Bellagio and other towns on both shores. Sailings are frequent from spring to autumn and thin in winter. ASF C-line buses follow the shore roads, and trains from Como San Giovanni run to Lugano and Zurich.

Ferries leave the pier by Piazza Cavour for towns along both shores, including Cernobbio, just north on the western side, and Bellagio further up at the point where the lake divides. Sailings are frequent from spring to autumn and much thinner in winter, so check the timetable before you plan a lake day.

On land, the C-line buses run by ASF follow the shore roads and are often quicker than driving, since village car parks are small.

Switzerland is right next door. Trains from Como San Giovanni cross to Chiasso and continue towards Lugano and Zurich. Fit cyclists can ride over the hills into Switzerland, drop to Lake Lugano, follow it north to Lugano, then turn east back over the border and return south along Lake Como, a full day in the saddle. Milan is about 40 km away for a city day.