Sorrento

Vallone dei Mulini, Marina Grande and a Pompeii morning

Two days in Sorrento covers Piazza Tasso, the Vallone dei Mulini gorge, the old lanes of Via San Cesareo and a seafood lunch at Marina Grande on day one. On day two, take an early ferry from Marina Piccola to Capri or the Circumvesuviana to Pompeii, then swim at Bagni Regina Giovanna.

Start at Piazza Tasso and walk a few metres up Viale Enrico Caruso to the railing over the Vallone dei Mulini, the green gorge with a ruined mill at the bottom. Explore the old lanes north of Corso Italia, including Via San Cesareo, one of the oldest streets in town, and the Sedil Dominova, where the local nobility once met. Visit the cloister of San Francesco, then go down to Marina Grande for a seafood lunch.

In the afternoon, see the Museo Correale's paintings and the inlaid wood museum on Via San Nicola. Join the evening stroll around Piazza Tasso before a late dinner.

On day two, take an early ferry from Marina Piccola to Capri, or ride the Circumvesuviana to Pompeii. Be back for a swim at Bagni Regina Giovanna at Capo di Sorrento, beside the ruins of the Roman Villa Pollio, as the sun drops.

Gnocchi alla sorrentina, limoncello and seafood at Marina Grande

The dish to order in Sorrento is gnocchi alla sorrentina, potato gnocchi baked with tomato sauce and mozzarella. Seafood is best at Marina Grande, and local lemons go into limoncello and crema al limone. Evenings start late: the passeggiata begins around 18:00 and many restaurants serve until 23:30.

Evenings run late here. People come out around 18:00 to walk the centre, and many restaurants keep serving until 23:30. Piazza Tasso's cafes, with tables facing the square, are the place for a coffee or a drink and some people-watching.

The dish to order is gnocchi alla sorrentina, potato gnocchi baked with tomato sauce and mozzarella. Parmigiana of aubergine or artichoke layers the vegetables with tomato and cheese. At Easter bakeries sell pastiera, a ricotta and wheat-grain tart. The peninsula's olive oil wins prizes, and seafood is best down at Marina Grande.

Lemons from the terraced groves go into limoncello and its creamier cousin crema al limone. Amaro di Capo di Sorrento is a bitter herbal liqueur, and local wines include Falanghina and Lacryma Christi. For gelato, Gelateria Davide on Via Padre Reginaldo Giuliani has a strong local following.

Sorrento lemons carry their own protected name, and the shops along Via San Cesareo sell limoncello in every bottle size. Ask for a taste first, because quality runs from excellent to syrupy.

Punta Campanella, Herculaneum and boats from Marina Piccola

Pompeii is the first day trip from Sorrento, a short ride on the Circumvesuviana, with Herculaneum further along the same line. Ferries from Marina Piccola reach Capri and, in season, Positano, Amalfi and Ischia. Keep Pompeii or the Punta Campanella walk for windy days, when boats are cancelled.

Pompeii is the obvious first trip, a short ride on the Circumvesuviana towards Naples; Ercolano, for the smaller and better-preserved town of Herculaneum, is further along the same line. Go early in summer, as both sites are exposed and hot by midday.

Capri is reached by ferry from Marina Piccola, and the same harbour serves Positano, Amalfi and Ischia in season. SITA buses leave from the square outside the station for the cliff road along the Amalfi Coast, with views straight down to the sea; sit on the right going towards Positano.

Closer to home, rent a bike or take a bus out to the Punta Campanella nature reserve at the tip of the peninsula, facing Capri. Naples itself is about 40 minutes away by ferry for a day of museums and pizza.

Plan around the sea. When the wind gets up, boats from Marina Piccola are cancelled or rough, so keep Pompeii or the Punta Campanella walk in reserve as a dry-land day and move Capri to the next calm morning.