Monterosso al Mare

The Vernazza path, Fegina beach and the Capuchin headland

Day one, morning. Start early on the coastal path to Vernazza, before the heat and the crowds. The trail climbs steeply out of the old town and follows the terraced hillside above the sea, dropping into Vernazza after about two hours. Have lunch there and take the train back.

Afternoon. Spend the rest of the day on Fegina beach. Walk to the far end to see the giant Neptune statue set into the rock, and swim as the day trippers leave.

Evening. Cross through the tunnel to the old town, look into the striped church of San Giovanni Battista, and have dinner in the lanes behind the harbour.

Day two. Climb the headland above the old town to the Capuchin convent for the view over both halves of the village. Then use the train to hop along the coast: Corniglia on its cliff, Manarola with its harbour and Riomaggiore at the far end are all minutes apart. In summer, finish with a boat back to Monterosso to see the villages from the sea.

Anchovies, terrace lemons and a glass of Sciacchetrà

Monterosso has been a fishing village for centuries, and the anchovy is its emblem. You will find them fried and served in paper cones, marinated in lemon, stuffed and baked, or salted and packed in jars to take home. Order them at least once.

As everywhere in Liguria, pesto is made with basil, pine nuts, garlic, cheese and olive oil, and served with trofie or trenette pasta. Focaccia, plain or topped with onion or olives, is the snack of choice at any hour. The lemons grown on the terraces above the village flavour cakes, sorbets and liqueurs.

The Cinque Terre's wines come from steep terraced vineyards. The everyday white is crisp and pairs with seafood, while Sciacchetrà, a sweet amber wine made from dried grapes, is a rare treat to sip after dinner.

For sit-down meals, the old town has the most choice. Al Carugio on Via San Pietro is a local favourite. In Fegina, beach cafes and bakeries are easier for lunch between swims.

Levanto, Vernazza and the boat to Portovenere

Monterosso is the best base for exploring the rest of the Cinque Terre, and the train makes every village a short hop.

Vernazza, the next village east, is reached on foot by the classic coastal path or in a few minutes by train. Its small harbour and church are among the most photographed scenes on the coast. Corniglia sits high on a cliff, reached from its station by a long stairway or a shuttle bus. Manarola and Riomaggiore, further east, have steep harbours and colourful houses stacked up the rocks.

West of Monterosso, Levanto is a larger town with a long beach and a more ordinary rhythm of life, a few minutes by train. To the east, La Spezia is about 20 minutes away and has the region's main station and naval history.

In summer, boats from Monterosso run along the coast to Portovenere, a fortified village at the mouth of the Gulf of Poets, a lovely approach by sea. Check the seasonal timetable before planning a day around it.