Badajoz travel guide
Moorish citadel, Zurbarán and the Portuguese border
Badajoz is Extremadura's largest city, on the Guadiana right by the Portuguese border. Come for the Alcazaba, the free fine-art museum and cheap tapas; a night or two is enough, ideally in spring or autumn because inland summers here are fierce.
On the left bank of the Guadiana, a few kilometres from the Portuguese frontier, Badajoz is the capital of Spain's largest province by area and a place most travellers only pass on the A-5 between Madrid and Lisbon. Stop for a night and you get a walled Moorish citadel, a serious fine-art collection and a compact old centre where eating out costs far less than in either capital.
The Alcazaba is the reason to come. Its walls are Almohad work of the 12th century on a much older base. The tallest of its eight towers, the 30-metre Torre de Espantaperros, took its nickname from a bell that sent the dogs of the square below running. Inside, the ducal palace of La Galera now holds the Archaeological Museum, strong on Roman and Visigothic finds, and the Plaza Alta sits at the citadel's southern foot.
Down at the river, the Puerta de Palmas, a ceremonial gate of 1551, faces the old bridge to the parks of the north bank. MUBA fills two 19th-century mansions on Calle Duque de San Germán with Zurbarán, Luis de Morales and Spanish painters up to Picasso and Dalí, and admission is free. History here has dark chapters too: Wellington's costly siege of 1812 and the 1936 killings in the bullring.
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Top things to do in Badajoz
A Moorish citadel, a strong art museum, riverside parks and a Portuguese fortress town next door.
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Best time to visit Badajoz
Month by month, so you can pick the weather and the crowds you want.
Warm days and cool evenings, the right weather for climbing up to the Alcazaba and walking the riverside parks.
Inland Extremadura bakes in July and August; sightsee early, rest through the afternoon and eat late, as locals do.
Cool, often bright and very quiet, with museums and tapas bars to yourself.
The Feria de San Juan fills about a week in late June with fairground rides, concerts and late nights; book rooms early for those dates.
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Getting there
Bus or train from Madrid and Lisbon
Badajoz's own airport has had few or no scheduled flights in recent years, so plan on flying into Lisbon or Madrid and finishing overland. From Madrid, Avanza coaches leave Estación Sur and stop at Mérida on the way; the train from Atocha is slow, with many stops across Extremadura and sometimes a change at Mérida. From Portugal, Avanza coaches come from Lisbon Oriente and Sete Rios via Évora, and a daily train runs via Entroncamento. Drivers simply follow the A-5.
- Coach from Madrid
- Avanza from Estación Sur, about 6 hours via Mérida
- Coach from Cáceres
- Four a day, about 75 minutes
- Train from Lisbon
- One a day from Oriente, changing at Entroncamento, just over 4 hours
- The railway station is 1 km north of the river; bus LC2 runs to the centre, and the coach station is 1 km south of the old town.
- The station has no left-luggage; the post office about 100 m away has stored bags for travellers who show ID.
Where to stay
South of the Guadiana or facing the Alcazaba
Sleep south of the river, within walking distance of the Alcazaba and Plaza de España. The north bank has bigger hotels with views back to the old town, but you will cross the bridge every time you go out to eat.
- Old centre
- Around Parque de Castelar and the cathedral; walkable to everything, the best choice for a short stay
- North bank
- Riverside hotels on Avenida Adolfo Díaz Ambrona, quieter and with views of the citadel
Getting around
Tubasa line LC2 and the Puerta de Palmas bridge
The old centre is small enough to walk end to end, from the Alcazaba down to Plaza de España and the river. For longer hops, Tubasa runs some 20 city bus routes, with maps and timetables on its website. A car is only worth having for trips to Elvas, Mérida or the countryside, and parking near the old town is tight.
- Bus LC2
- City centre to the railway station and the retail park by the bypass
- On foot
- The Puerta de Palmas bridge links the old town with the Parque de la Guadiana
- In summer, walk in the morning and after 19:00; the streets are empty in the afternoon heat for good reason.
Know before you go
What makes Badajoz worth the trip, and what catches visitors out.
Why travelers love it
- The Alcazaba walls at sunset, looking north over the Guadiana and the Puerta de Palmas.
- MUBA's galleries, where Zurbarán and Luis de Morales hang in two old townhouses and entry is free.
- Elvas across the border, whose star-shaped fortifications make an easy half-day trip.
Good to know
- Midday closures are normal: MUBA shuts between 14:00 and 17:00 on weekdays and all day Monday, so plan museum time for mornings.
- Portugal is an hour behind, which matters if you cross to Elvas for lunch or catch a bus to Lisbon.
Trip fit
BookingMentor editorial ratings out of 5, based on a first-time visitor's experience.
Weather in Badajoz, month by month
Badajoz averages 35°C in July and 14°C by day in January. October is the wettest month, at about 63 mm.
Climate figures are approximate long-term averages for Badajoz Airport (Agencia Estatal de Meteorologia, via Wikipedia).
Alcazaba walls by morning, MUBA after the siesta
Badajoz is a one-day city built around the heat. See the Alcazaba and its Archaeological Museum early, walk down through Plaza Alta to the cathedral, rest after a late lunch, visit MUBA when it reopens at 17:00, and cross the river at dusk for the view of the lit citadel.
Morning: start at the Alcazaba early, before the sun is on the walls. Walk the circuit to the Torre de Espantaperros, then give the Archaeological Museum inside La Galera an hour for its Roman and Visigothic pieces, and take a turn through the Jardines de la Galera.
Late morning and lunch: drop down through Plaza Alta into the old streets and on to Plaza de España and the cathedral of San Juan. Lunch in Badajoz starts after 14:00, so there is no rush.
Afternoon: MUBA reopens at 17:00 on weekdays, enough time for Zurbarán and Morales.
Evening: walk to the river, cross the old bridge to the Parque de la Guadiana near the Puerta de Palmas for the view back to the citadel as the lights come on, then return to the centre for dinner.
Migas, Torta del Casar and Ribera del Guadiana wine
Eat Extremaduran: jamón ibérico from acorn-fed pigs, migas and the runny Torta del Casar, with a Ribera del Guadiana wine. Prices are low, and Papabuey, Casa Rosendo, Mesón El Chozo and La Tasquita de Bere sit within a few streets of each other in the old town.
Look for jamón ibérico from acorn-fed pigs of the local dehesa, migas (fried breadcrumbs with pork and peppers) and the runny sheep's cheese Torta del Casar from the north of the region.
In the old town south of the river, Papabuey, Casa Rosendo, Mesón El Chozo and La Tasquita de Bere are all within a few streets of each other. Along the south bank, Masumi Convento and El Chiringuito del Parra have outdoor tables in summer. Across the river on Avenida Adolfo Díaz Ambrona, Lugaris and El Vivero are smarter options with views of the Alcazaba.
For something sweet, stop at Juan Martínez Gómez on Calle Francisco Pizarro, a small, old-fashioned pastry shop used by locals.
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Quick answers to the questions travelers ask most before visiting Badajoz.
Getting there
Both work, since Badajoz's own airport has had few or no scheduled routes. Avanza coaches take about 6 hours from Madrid Estación Sur and roughly 4 hours from Lisbon Oriente, so the choice comes down to where your flight is cheaper.
The coach station sits about 1 km south of the old centre. The railway station is roughly 1 km north of the river, and bus LC2 links it with the centre.
Badajoz's own airport has had few or no scheduled flights in recent years, so plan on flying into Lisbon or Madrid and finishing overland. From Madrid, Avanza coaches leave Estación Sur and stop at Mérida on the way; the train from Atocha is slow, with many stops across Extremadura and sometimes a change at Mérida. From Portugal, Avanza coaches come from Lisbon Oriente and Sete Rios via Évora, and a daily train runs via Entroncamento.
General
The conventional service has taken around 5 hours with many stops, sometimes changing at Mérida. A faster line has been under construction, so check current Renfe timings when you book.
Yes, if you start early. Add a second day for Elvas across the border or the Roman theatre and bridge at Mérida.
The tallest tower of the Alcazaba, about 30 metres high. Its name means scare-dogs, after a bell whose ringing scattered the dogs lazing in the square below.
Very. Elvas, with its star-shaped garrison walls on UNESCO's list, is about 15 km west, and Campo Maior is close too. Set your watch back an hour once you cross.
Acorn-fed Iberian ham, migas and Torta del Casar cheese, with a red or white from the Ribera del Guadiana denomination.
Yes. The Museo de Bellas Artes on Calle Duque de San Germán is free, open Tuesday to Sunday with a long midday break on weekdays and mornings only at weekends.
Average highs reach 35°C in both months, with heatwave days hotter still and almost no rain. Spring (March to May) and October to November are far kinder for walking the walls.
The old centre is small enough to walk end to end, from the Alcazaba down to Plaza de España and the river. For longer hops, Tubasa runs some 20 city bus routes, with maps and timetables on its website. A car is only worth having for trips to Elvas, Mérida or the countryside, and parking near the old town is tight.
Timing & weather
It runs for about a week in late June, around the feast of St John on 24 June, with a fairground, concerts and street parties.
The best time to visit Badajoz is Mar to May, Oct to Nov. Mild days for walking the walls; July and August are extremely hot inland.
- Best overall: March - May, October - November (Warm days and cool evenings, the right weather for climbing up to the Alcazaba and walking the riverside parks)
- Summer: June - September (Inland Extremadura bakes in July and August; sightsee early, rest through the afternoon and eat late, as locals do)
- Winter: December - February (Cool, often bright and very quiet, with museums and tapas bars to yourself)
Visa & documents
Spain follows Schengen entry rules. Citizens of the EU and of many other countries, including the US, UK, Canada and Australia, can visit visa-free for up to 90 days in any 180-day period; other nationalities need a Schengen visa. The EU's Entry/Exit System (EES) records non-EU travelers' fingerprints and a photo at the border.
Health & safety
Pickpocketing in the big cities is Spain's main crime risk for visitors. Pickpocketing is common in Barcelona and Madrid, especially on the metro and in tourist areas. Heatwaves and wildfires occur in summer.
