Málaga

Two days in Málaga, then trains to Nerja, Ronda and beyond

Two days cover Málaga's own sights. After that, the airport and the AVE station make the city the easiest gateway to Andalusia, with trains and buses fanning out along the coast and inland from the same station, so day trips to Nerja, Ronda, Granada or the Caminito del Rey need little planning.

• Day one, the hill and the old town: the Roman Theatre and the Alcazaba fortress above it, then up to the Gibralfaro castle on bus 35 or by a steep walk. Spend the afternoon at the Museo Picasso and the cathedral before evening tapas around Calle Larios.
• Day two, market, port and beach: the Mercado de Atarazanas in the morning (it shuts at 15:00), then along the palm-lined Paseo del Parque to the Muelle Uno waterfront and the Centre Pompidou. End on La Malagueta beach, or take bus 33 east to the old fishing quarters of Pedregalejo and El Palo.
• Further days:Nerja, 50 km along the coast, with its caves and the white village of Frigiliana 8 km inland. Ronda is about two hours away by bus. Other choices are the Caminito del Rey walkway above the El Chorro gorge or Granada for the Alhambra.

Book the Caminito del Rey well before you travel, since it needs an advance reservation. Buy Alcazaba tickets online to skip the queue at the gate, and remember entry is free on Sunday afternoons from 14:00. If time allows only one fortress, pick the Alcazaba: Gibralfaro rewards you mainly with the view, and it takes a hike or a bus to get there. Holy Week packs the centre and fills hotels early, so reserve ahead if your dates fall around Easter.

For El Torcal or Mijas, renting a car at the airport is cheap; book ahead in summer.

Beach Junes, mild sunny winters and Málaga's 300 days of sun

June and September give you beach heat without the peak crowds, and winter suits museums and long walks. The Montes de Málaga block cold northern winds, so December to February average 17°C to 18°C by day, with sunshine on about 300 days a year. The catch is rain in November and December (77 mm and 88 mm).

Summer is beach time. July and August average 31°C and 32°C with nights that stay above 20°C. Sea humidity makes the heat feel heavier than the figures suggest, especially when the wind is light. The coast is at its busiest then. The sea drops to about 16°C in January. The sea reaches its warmest, about 23°C, in August.

Two festivals shape the calendar. Holy Week processions have been held here for at least 500 years and rank among the oldest in Spain. They fill the centre every day from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, and the Museo de Arte Cofrade shows the Baroque religious art behind them. The Feria de Málaga takes over the city in August, adding to the summer crowds. Book rooms early for both.

Espetos sardines and pescaíto frito at the chiringuitos of Pedregalejo

Eat espetos: sardines skewered on a stick and grilled over a fire, traditionally of driftwood, in the sand beside the chiringuitos (beach restaurants) towards Pedregalejo and El Palo. Order them with pescaíto frito, a mixed plate of fried fish from anchovies to squid, and finish with a glass of the city's sweet Moscatel.

Also try cazón en adobo (dogfish marinated in garlic and vinegar) and coquinas, tiny clams cooked in white wine. At El Tintero there is no menu at all: waiters walk the floor calling out what they carry, and you signal for the plate you want.

Back in town, the Mercado de Atarazanas is a 19th-century iron hall with stained glass and a 14th-century Moorish gate. Stalls sell regional olive oil, fish, meat and cheese until mid-afternoon. Old-town bars cluster near Calle Larios and the Picasso Museum. Bodeguita El Gallo serves traditional tapas opposite the museum entrance, and Taberna Quitapenas is a reliable stop.

The local drink is the sweet wine made from muscat grapes. Taste it at La Casa del Guardia, an old tavern on the Alameda Principal, or at El Pimpi. One point of etiquette catches visitors out.