Córdoba

The Mezquita at opening time, Madinat al-Zahra the next morning

Two days suit Córdoba. Spend the first on the Mezquita, the Judería and sunset from the Calahorra tower across the Roman bridge, and the second at Madinat al-Zahra early, before the sun is on its terraces, then at the Alcázar gardens and the patios of San Basilio.

Be at the Mezquita at 08:30, when entry is free for the first hour from Monday to Saturday, and stay at least two hours for the striped arches, the mosaic-covered mihrab and the cathedral set into the middle of the prayer hall. Come out through the Patio de los Naranjos and lose yourself in the Judería, finding the Calleja de las Flores and the little medieval synagogue. Rest through the hottest hours, as locals do. In the late afternoon, cross the Roman bridge to the Calahorra tower and watch the old city turn gold, then walk back for dinner as the Mezquita is lit.

On day two, go out early to Madinat al-Zahra, the ruined palace city the caliphs built west of Córdoba in the 10th century, before the sun is on the bare terraces. Back in town, visit the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos and its terraced gardens of pools and orange trees, then wander the San Basilio quarter next door, where many of the finest patios hide. Finish near Plaza de la Corredera with salmorejo and a glass of Montilla-Moriles.

Salmorejo, flamenquín and Montilla wine in Córdoba

Córdoba's kitchen runs on olive oil, bread and pork. Salmorejo, its signature, is a thick, cold purée of tomato, bread, garlic and oil, topped with chopped egg and cured ham; it is denser and richer than gazpacho and at its best on a hot day.

Flamenquín wraps pork loin in ham, rolls it in breadcrumbs and fries it, usually with chips alongside. Rabo de toro, slow-braised oxtail, is the classic stew, and berenjenas con miel, fried aubergine strips drizzled with cane honey, turn up in almost every tapas bar.

Wine comes from Montilla-Moriles, the hills to the south, where the Pedro Ximénez grape makes dry, fino-style whites and dark, syrupy dessert wines. Locals drink the dry ones chilled with tapas. Each year in late April the Cata del Vino Montilla-Moriles fills a big tent in the city with tastings and music.

For eating out, the old taverns are the safest bet. Taberna Góngora is a local favourite for cured meats, and the bars around Plaza de la Corredera draw a more lived-in crowd than the streets beside the Mezquita. The Mercado Victoria, a food hall on Paseo de la Victoria, is handy for grazing.

Córdoba in May for the patios and Cruces, and the summer heat to avoid

Visit Córdoba in spring, ideally in May, when the Cruces de Mayo, the UNESCO-listed Festival de los Patios and the Feria follow one another and the city is outdoors. April and May reach 24°C and 28°C, October is a quieter second season, and summer is fierce.

Córdoba has some of the hottest summers in Europe. July and August average 37°C in the afternoon, many days pass 40°C, and almost no rain falls from June to August. In those months, sightsee from opening time until late morning, stay indoors through the afternoon and come out again after dark, when the streets fill.

In spring the orange trees blossom and the whole city seems to be outside. May is effectively one long festival. The Cruces de Mayo come first, with flower-covered crosses, music and drinks in the squares. Then, for about two weeks, residents of the old districts open their private courtyards for the Festival de los Patios, listed by UNESCO, and queues form at the best ones in San Basilio and the Judería. The Feria closes the month with a week of dancing and food in fairground marquees.

Autumn is a quieter second season, with 26°C in October, though October and November are also wet at about 79 mm each. Winter days are cool and bright, around 15°C to 17°C, with cold nights near 4°C and December the rainiest month of all.