Asahna Bucha and Khao Phansa, Start of Buddhist Lent

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Asahna Bucha and Khao Phansa, Start of Buddhist Lent guide

Monks begin the rains retreat.

In short

Asahna Bucha and Khao Phansa fall on the full moon of the eighth lunar month and the morning after, usually in July. Temples are busy as families bring candles for the wet season and young men are ordained for the rains retreat. It suits respectful travellers who want to see Thai Buddhism at its most active.

Asahna Bucha and Khao Phansa are two Buddhist holy days that fall back to back in Thailand. The first remembers the Buddha's first sermon. The second, the morning after, sends monks into the three-month rains retreat that Thais call phansa and visitors usually call Buddhist Lent.

Temples are at their busiest. Families bring candles meant to last the wet season, young men shave their heads to join the monkhood for a few months, and in the northeast the candle offering has grown into one of the country's great street parades. For a traveller it is a rare look at Thai Buddhism as everyday life.

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Key Facts & Stats:
Ends: Monday, 19 July 2027
Where: Thailand
Held: Every year
Type of event: Cultural Events, Religious Festivals
Currency: Thai baht (THB, ฿)
Time zone: Indochina Time, UTC+7
Language: Thai
Next edition starts in
250days 15hrs 1min

Getting around

Hotels near the venue fill up around the event dates.

Where and how it is celebrated

The main cities where the festival is celebrated.

What happens on the day

  1. Asahna Bucha, morning

    Food for the monks

    People bring food to the temple and stay for the sermon.

  2. Asahna Bucha, daytime

    Candles on show in Ubon

    The great candles are brought to Thung Si Mueang, dressed and displayed for the evening crowds.

  3. Asahna Bucha, after dark

    Candle walk

    Three slow circuits of the main hall.

  4. Khao Phansa, morning

    Parade in Ubon

    Floats carrying the candles roll through the centre with dancers and musicians. Elsewhere, families take rain-season robes and supplies to their temple.

  5. Three lunar months later

    Ok Phansa

    The retreat ends; in 2026 on 26 October.

Etiquette and dress

Dress

Cover shoulders and knees at the temple (TAT).

Shoes

Remove them before entering any hall.

Candle walk

Join quietly at the back and walk clockwise with the line.

Visiting a local temple or Ubon's candle parade

There are two ways to spend these days. The simple one is to stay put: every temple in Thailand marks both holidays, so the wat nearest your hotel will hold a sermon, a morning of merit-making and an evening candle walk. The more ambitious plan is to travel to Ubon Ratchathani in the northeast, where the Lent candle offering has grown into a full city festival with giant carved candles and a street parade.

That is the catch. One international holiday site places the pair a day later than the published Thai calendars, and in a dispute the holiday list from the Bank of Thailand settles it. Check it before you pay for anything. Our Thailand travel guide helps with the rest of the route.

The first sermon and the start of the rains retreat

Tradition places the Buddha's first sermon in the Deer Park at Sarnath, in India, where he taught the Four Noble Truths to five men who had once practised with him. One of them asked to be ordained on the spot. Thais count that request as the birth of the Sangha, the order of monks, and so Asahna Bucha sits near the top of their religious year.

The retreat that starts the next day is a much older discipline. Monks were not meant to wander during the rains, so for three lunar months they stay at a single temple and may not spend a night elsewhere. A monk's seniority is still counted in the number of these retreats he has kept. Many young Thai men ordain for this period alone.

Lay people often make a promise of their own, such as giving up alcohol, meat or cigarettes until Lent ends. The big wax candle given to each temple is meant to burn through the whole season. Ubon's carved giants are another matter: they are works of art, sculpted with scenes from Buddhist and Hindu myth, and never lit.

Getting there

To Ubon by air

Ubon Ratchathani airport (UBP) is about 50 minutes from Bangkok, with Thai Airways from Suvarnabhumi and Nok Air and AirAsia from Don Mueang. Buy a fixed-price taxi coupon of about 100 baht in arrivals.

By train

Six departures a day from Krung Thep Aphiwat take 8.5 to 11.5 hours; the overnight sleepers arrive in the morning. Ubon's station is across the Mun River in Warin Chamrap; city buses 2 and 6 run to the centre.

By bus

About 10 hours from the Mo Chit area of Bangkok.

In Ubon

Walk. Roads close or crawl on parade morning, so set off early for a spot on the kerb.

Where to stay during the festival

Ubon needs booking. Rooms around Thung Si Mueang, where the candles are on show, go first. Trains and flights from Bangkok fill up for the long weekend, so reserve transport as soon as your dates are firm.

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Bangkok

Blue Wana Place

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Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok5-star hotel

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Weather and what to pack

Mid-July is the rainy season across Thailand. Ubon Ratchathani averages highs of about 33°C and lows around 25°C in July, with nearly 300 mm of rain in the month. Showers are usually heavy but brief.

Worth packing

  • A compact umbrella or poncho
  • Clothes that cover shoulders and knees
  • Slip-on shoes
  • Water for the parade kerb

Car hire in Thailand

Airport transfer to Asahna Bucha and Khao Phansa, Start of Buddhist Lent

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Restaurants and food in Thailand

Places to eat in Thailand before or after the celebrations.

Vertigo

61st Floor, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Road, Thung Maha Mek, Sathon, Bangkok 10120, Thailand

Cuisine:GrillInternational

  • Dine-in
  • Outdoor seating
  • Bar
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

General

In the central park, Thung Si Mueang, on the evening before the parade. Go after dark, when the crowds come out and the decorated candles stand side by side for close inspection.