Whistler

Four ski days on Whistler and Blackcomb

Four days give you time to ski both Whistler and Blackcomb mountains. Collect your lift pass the evening you arrive, ride the first Whistler Village Gondola, warm up around the Roundhouse Lodge and move into the alpine bowls by late morning. Use the later days for Blackcomb, the Peak 2 Peak Gondola and a rest day.

Warm up on the groomed runs around the Roundhouse Lodge, then move into the alpine bowls by late morning when the light is better. Finish with a drink on a patio by the base while the slopes empty.

Day two belongs to Blackcomb. Ride the Peak 2 Peak Gondola across the valley, which gives you the long view down to the village, and spend the day on the Blackcomb side. Stop for one of the berry-and-cream waffles at the Crystal Hut, an old log cabin near the top of the Crystal chair, and plan to ski back to the Upper Village by late afternoon.

On day three, let the weather decide. After fresh snow, go back to the bowls early; on a grey day, the tree runs lower down hold the best visibility. Day four is for resting the legs: walk the Valley Trail to Lost Lake in the morning, spend the afternoon at the Audain Art Museum or the Squamish Lil'wat Cultural Centre, and book a good dinner in the village for the last night.

In summer, swap the ski days for the Mountain Bike Park, a sightseeing ride to the alpine trails and a swim in Alta Lake.

Crystal Hut waffles, mountain lodge lunches and village après

Eat on the mountain at lunch and in Whistler Village at night. The Roundhouse on Whistler and the Rendezvous on Blackcomb serve cafeteria food with Coast Mountains views, the Crystal Hut is known for Belgian-style waffles, and après starts on the base-area patios as the lifts close. Village Square has the sit-down restaurants.

Lunch at the big lodges such as the Roundhouse on Whistler or the Rendezvous on Blackcomb is cafeteria style, but the views across the Coast Mountains make up for the trays and the crowds. The Crystal Hut is the place everyone talks about, for Belgian-style waffles heaped with berries and whipped cream; go before noon to avoid the longest queue.

Aprés starts the moment the lifts slow down. The bars around the base of the gondolas fill up within half an hour of closing, so ski down a little early if you want a seat on a sunny patio. A Caesar, Canada's clamato-and-vodka answer to the Bloody Mary, is the standard order, and pub plates of wings, nachos or poutine are the usual fuel.

For dinner, the restaurants around Village Square and the Village Stroll cover everything from noodle bars to tasting menus. Araxi is the established fine-dining choice, with a menu built on British Columbia ingredients such as Pacific salmon, oysters and Okanagan wines. Book several days ahead in high season, especially over Christmas and the February holidays.

To save money, stock up at the village supermarkets and cook in your condo, then treat yourself to one big night out.

November rain, January powder and Crankworx in summer

Ski Whistler from late November, when the lifts usually open, through spring, and visit in summer for mountain biking and Crankworx. November is the wettest month, with about 192 mm of precipitation that falls as rain in the valley and builds the snow base higher up, and December and January are the coldest months.

Whistler's weather swings hard between seasons. November is the wettest month, with about 192 mm of precipitation, and October is not far behind at roughly 155 mm. December and January bring the coldest valley temperatures, highs around 0C to 1C and lows near minus 5C, and January averages about 176 mm of snow and rain combined. That is why January to March is the reliable powder window.

Spring skiing in March and April is a favourite with locals. Days lengthen, valley highs climb from about 7C to 12C, and the upper mountain often keeps good snow while the village patios fill with people in T-shirts. Lift closing dates vary each year, so check before booking a late April trip.

Summer is surprisingly dry. July and August average highs of about 24C with less than 50 mm of rain each month, which is why the bike park, hiking trails and lakes stay busy. Crankworx, the mountain bike festival, brings slopestyle and downhill competitions to the village in summer and fills every bed.

Late autumn is the quietest stretch. The gondolas close for maintenance from October into early November, and many businesses take a break. The Cornucopia food and drink festival in November is the main reason to come then.