Jeddah

Al-Balad, the Corniche and a boat to the Red Sea reefs

Three days suit Jeddah: Al-Balad, the UNESCO-listed coral-stone old town, then the Corniche, which runs for nearly 30 km, and finally a boat out to the Red Sea reefs. The city keeps late hours, with shops shut at the noon and sunset prayers and dinner after the evening prayer, so save outdoor sightseeing for late afternoon.

• Day one, Al-Balad: the coral-stone quarter inscribed by UNESCO in 2014 is the reason most people come. The city wall came down in the 1940s, but its gates still mark the old boundary. Walk Souq al-Alawi, where tall houses with wooden roshan screens lean over the stalls, and climb Naseef House when it opens at 17:00 for the view across the rooftops. Restoration work is everywhere, so some lanes may be fenced off.
• Day two, the Corniche: the waterfront road runs past sculptures, parks and beaches. Take in the Regional Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography in Khuzam Palace (built in 1928), then watch the King Fahd Fountain after dark, throwing water up to 260 to 312 m.
• Day three, the reef: dive or snorkel from a boat. The better sites are about an hour out by speedboat, with visibility often 30 to 40 m; the Chicken Wreck lies at 10 to 18 m. Non-divers can hire a small boat at the Obhur marina in the north.

Muslim visitors often add Umrah, since the high-speed train reaches Mecca in 43 minutes. Medina lies further up the same line. Non-Muslims may not enter Mecca. If you are in town for the Formula One race on the Corniche circuit (next set for 19 to 21 March 2027), book rooms months ahead.

Diving-weather winters and humid summers in Jeddah

January and February are the best months for Jeddah, when dawn sits near 15 °C and afternoons reach about 28 °C, with the sea still around 22 °C for diving. Summer afternoons pass 40 °C in sticky coastal humidity, and November and December thunderstorms can flood whole districts.

The record of 52.0 °C, set on 22 June 2010, is the highest ever measured in the kingdom. The coast adds humidity: dew points above 27 °C are common, worst in September, and the air feels thick even at midnight. Even the sea gets uncomfortably warm from July to October.

Drainage is poor, so a single storm can flood whole districts; the December 2008 storm dropped around 80 mm. If heavy rain is forecast, stay off low roads and underpasses.

Religious seasons move crowds more than weather does. At Hajj the pilgrim terminals at the airport work flat out. Outside the Hajj season, hotels here are generally cheaper than in Riyadh. Ramadan nights in Al-Balad are lively, with the lanes packed after the fast breaks.

Saleeg, mabshour, Al Baik and Jeddah's shisha-café evenings

Jeddah eats two ways: Hejazi home dishes such as saleeg and mabshour, and the food brought by centuries of pilgrims and traders. Al Baik, the fried-chicken chain founded in 1974, began here. With alcohol illegal, evenings revolve around shisha cafés and coffee shops.

Start with the Hejazi dishes. Saleeg is rice boiled in meat broth (often with milk) and served under the meat. Mabshour is a white rice dish cooked in broth, usually with chicken. Madhbi is chicken grilled on hot stone. Look out too for madfoun, whose name means "buried". Magliya is the local falafel, and foul is a staple of the traditional restaurants. Mutabbaq, a stuffed bread that is either fried or baked, is the street snack of the western coast.

Other dishes arrived with families from abroad: mantu and ruz bukhari from Central Asia, mandi from Yemen, burek from Turkey and the Balkans, biryani from South Asia. Shawarma stands are the default cheap meal. For South Asian cooking ask for Kababish, the Pakistani area; there is also a Filipino souk near Saudia City.

In Ramadan look for sobia, a cold spiced drink brewed from barley or bread with palm sap. Ma'soub is a breakfast brought from the south: bread mashed with banana plus honey.

Some restaurants keep separate sections for families and single men. All businesses shut for around half an hour at the noon and sunset prayers, but diners already seated can usually stay. Public beaches expect the same modest dress as the street, while private beach clubs are far more relaxed.