Sandomierz

From the Opatowska Gate to the Pepper Mountains

Begin at Sandomierz's Opatowska Gate, one of the best surviving town gates in Poland, and climb its tower for the view to the Vistula. Walk the Market Square and the cellars of the Underground Tourist Route, head down Katedralna to the Gothic cathedral and the brick Church of St James, and end at the Pepper Mountains at dusk.

Midday. Head down Katedralna to the Gothic cathedral, which keeps its original layout and carved interior, and stop at the House of Jan Długosz nearby, home of the medieval chronicler and now a museum of church art. The castle stands just beyond, on the edge of the escarpment. Have lunch on one of the terraces back on the square.

Afternoon. Walk down to the Church of St James, one of the oldest brick churches in Poland, and the Needle's Eye, the narrow gate in the walls below. Then follow the path into Queen Jadwiga's Ravine, a sunken loess lane that stays cool even in July.

Evening. Drive or walk east to the Pepper Mountains for the last hour of light, when the low sun turns the shale cliffs a deep reddish brown. Return to the square after dark, when it is lit and quiet.

Sandomierz apples, cider and the vineyards on the loess hills

Sandomierz sits in apple country: orchards cover the loess hills on both banks of the Vistula, and in late summer and autumn roadside stalls sell apples by the crate with local juice and cider, while vineyards have spread over the same slopes. Restaurants and cafés line the Market Square, many with terraces.

Vineyards have spread over the same slopes in recent decades, and a glass of local white wine on the Market Square is now part of a visit.

Restaurants and cafés line the square and the streets off it, many with terraces facing the town hall. Menus stick to Polish favourites: pierogi in several fillings, żurek, the sour rye soup, and pork or duck with apples, which here makes local sense. Prices on the square are higher than one street back, and the side streets are quieter at lunchtime.

The cellars under the square, now part of the Underground Tourist Route, were once merchants' storerooms for goods traded along the river, which is worth remembering as you walk through them. Eat on the square in the evening, when the coach groups have left and the lights come on around the town hall. On a summer weekend, book a table or eat early.

Ravine walks in May and September, apples in autumn

Sandomierz has one of the warmer, drier climates in Poland. May, June and September are the best months for walking the ravines, July and August are warmest at about 25°C, and autumn brings the apple harvest. Winter is cold and very dry, with January highs near 1°C.

Highs run from about 19°C in September to 23°C in June, which is ideal for climbing the gate tower, walking down to St James and back, and exploring the ravines. Rain is moderate, around 60 mm a month, and the coach groups are fewer than in high summer.

July and August are the warmest, with average highs of about 25°C. July is also the wettest month, at roughly 90 mm, mostly in thunderstorms. The town is busiest at weekends, so arrive early or stay the night. Queen Jadwiga's Ravine and the cool cellars beneath the square are the natural retreats at midday.

Winter is cold and very dry, with January highs around 1°C and lows near -5°C, and only about 20 to 30 mm of precipitation a month. The Old Town is lovely under snow and nearly empty, but the ravine paths get icy and some seasonal places close.